Day 8. Arrival to the sea and reorganizing plans

Night had been waking up due to ankle pains. This was becoming somewhat of an issue. As todays plan said it should be shortish day I figured I'll take it easy and walk leisuredly today.

First train left bit before 7 and next after 10 so needless to say I was on time for first one. I spent time being in half asleep, half awake state. Felt quite rested when I arrived to the station from where I had to retrace path last night until I turned toward the temple.

Another beautiful morning. So far day had been quite excellent. How far it holds up though?

Found to my surprise solar panels. Somehow didn't expect them here. But on this weather provides electricity nicely.

It was fairly short trip back to the temple 22, Byōdōji(Temple of Equality). Kobo Daishi is said to have come here to pray for removal of disasters for everybody here when he was 41 years old. During that trip he saw 5 coloured clouds on the sky with sanskrit letters in them. Chanting the letters image of Yakushi Nyorai(the healing Buddha) appeared.

Kobo Daishi wanted to perform a ritual for him but for that he needed water so he dug up a well from which water white as a milk appearing from it. He washed his body with it and then performed the ritual that took 100 days(patient!). After this he carved statue of Yakushi Nyorai that is the current Honzon.

This story is origin of the temple's mountain name White water mountain. Main name comes from the idea that Yakushi saves all beings from disease, regardless of age, sex, rank, or race...

Nio guardians.

 Stairway to the main hall. Once more a climb.

Main hall.

Temple was quiet with only a few pilgrims there. One who happened to be none other than the "biker aunt" :) Joy of meeting again was mutual. When I mentioned the ankle pain she immediately told me to take off shoes and socks feeling around. She figured it's no bone breakage but there's heat in there. Inflammation from overwalking. She recommended "shippu" which I believe is some sort of compression. Too bad we are middle of nowhere without pharmaceustics so getting them might be a problem...

I assured her next 3 days should be lighter and if need be I'll stop for rest. She left shortly before I left. Have fun! Maybe we'll meet again though now comes section where motorbike really shines over walker. Long asphalt roads rather than mountains. (As it turns out I didn't see her though did call her once)

Not quite sure why but after biker aunt left and I did my prayers I had hard time fighting back tears. 

I also spotted another familiar face. The women I had walked with yesterday. Good. She got off the trail safely as well.

And another statue of Kobo Daishi.

Daishi hall.

Before heading toward next temple there was still matter off post. Luckily it was right on the path so I lightened up pack by sending bought book to a friend. Thanks!

Next temple would be some 20km or so  away. I caught up soon with the lady from yesterday who was surprised to see me come from behind but of course she didn't know of my post detour ;D

There is two routes to go from here. Shorter one that follows highway 55 with nothing notable on route. Then there's bit longer one that crosses through at least one town and goes along sea from one point. I picked up the scenic route as it has bigger chance of finding supplies if need be. Also once I reach the Yuki town train line goes along and station is always close. Might be handy if ankle gives up...

 Catching up with another pilgrim.

 We chatted abit and as usual I then from this small temple onward proceeded on my own pace. She would be stopping at Yuki which I would be passing through so I had longer route so needed to keep my pace up.

 Never good sign to see warning about mamushi, the poisonous snake in Japan which can be found here though don't think this is major season for them.

This section can be described with word loneliness. Virtually no cars and no walkers whatsoever. If you think Japan is all crowded up visit this area. You can be in perfect solitude...

Taking regular breaks I moved forward until I caught up with highway 55 that I would be walking for next 100km+ almost non-stop. Sigh. I was looking for where to go when 6 pilgrims were coming from my right. Pretty sure they were walking in reverse so their direction seemed safe bet but I confirmed anyway,

First taste of route 55 was as boring as I expected with couple tunnels for good measure. When route split toward Yuki I was glad to go elsewhere again.

Arrival to highway 55. And 96km to Muroto that's the destination. And from there it's still dozens of kilometers. This highway will be my friend and my enemy for a while...

Arrival to the route 55 happened while there was actually largish group of reverse walking pilgrims. That's bit unusual as usually reverse walkers seems to be individuals. Groups are generally walking on clockwise order. We exchanged greetings and I got bit directions where to go.

And right off the bat tunnel! Not a good start.

At least this was good one with nice safe rail. These are blessings in otherwise unpleasant tunnel crossings.

After the tunnel there was this nice rest hut.

And soon enough yet another tunnel...

Walking these empty roads along farm fields and buildings with no humans or even cars on sight sure felt odd! And people think "Japan, crowded". Come walk here and taste lonelyness! Good place to just think all sort of things.

On there there was sad view of ex school that now had free toilets for pilgrims(though with voluntary donations requested for upkeep which I had no trouble paying for. Toilets are surprisingly big help for pilgrims!). But was sad sight as it was living example of decreasing population in rural Shikoku.

Leaving the school(and almost forgetting staff to the wall of building...Whoops!) I bought drinks on vending machine and continued onward.

Closest thing to a human I had seen for several hours!

 But onward. In silence. Alone. With only very rarely car passing up. I was so lonely that when I spotted 2 old grandmas walking on other side of road I went right away there for a chat. When they mentioned another pilgrim, female, ahead I thought lady from yesterday had caught up with me.

No clouds on the sky. Quite a warm day to walk on lonely asphalt.

 But turned out this was another lady from Hokkaido that I had met yesterday before mountain temple of 21. Well met! She was planning to go to the Yuki town and take a train to Hiwasa from there. Tempting idea! We chatted for quite a while(and we both agreed it was lucky we met to ward of the loneliness!) but shortly before where road turns toward Yuki station she said I should be moving on my own pace and looking at remaining distance meters and clock figured she might be right. Also I had sinking feeling short day wouldn't be a short day after all...

Beware crabs! Well less of warning for our sake and more of warning to avoid squashing those when they come here between june and september.

Shortly after this I smelled familiar smell I had been waiting for. Sea! And sure enough I soon got first sight of sea that would be constant companion for...Well pretty much rest of this years pilgrimage!

I have lived most of my life close to sea so very familiar sight.

But not this shade of blue! Finland's seas aren't this turquoise,

There was rest hut on the beach which was very welcome as not only it gave chance to rest legs on a coach it gave bit of shading. It was getting quite warm! Spring has finally come up properly.

Nice zoom on my camera. Not even max. Albeit I was paying price for that in weight and size...I think I'll get new one before next trip.

Thanks whoever built this oasis!

 Uhhuh another tunnel...

 12 kilometers to the next temple? This was definitely feeling like day that won't be as short as I had thought it be. Seems I miscalculated this detours effect on distance.

 With occasional breaks I continued toward the Hiwasa where last temple of Tokushima(of the main 88) lied. I passed through fisher towns so had some human sights again.

VERY familiar sight. I was born and raised in a port town so port is quite a familiar sight.

Yet another rest hut? But now wasn't feeling like stopping to ensure I don't end up late.

 On route there was 2 shortcuts over mountain that gave much welcomed relief for feets about asphalt. First rose, second descended. Luckily this meant both didn't have climb and descent which was relief. Especially the "only one descend" part!

This wasn't exactly easiest ground to climb up.

At the top of the section where descent began was a bench in which I took a break and called bookings for next 2 nights. This time without much issues.

With this I started to be close to the Hiwasa and starting to pass lodgings before Hiwasa. In hindsight it might have been better to book here after all and walk to Hiwasa next day. Ah well. Miscalculation cost me some walking here.

One of those lodgings I think.

Now THAT is interesting looking...hill?

Some building had interesting wall.

Arrival to Hiwasa! Boy was I again tired.

There's the Hiwasa castle. Original plan had been to go around there and take scenic detour but due to ankle issues I decided to drop that idea.

 But ankles were getting pretty bad again so when I got to the temple wan't too thrilled to see stairs. Then the stairways that match numbers age that's bad luck for men(42) followed by same for women(33). UGH! And for added fun after that there is 61 step stair as that's the worst age for both sexes that leads to another building though that I skipped.

Regarding those stairs it's said it brings good luck to leave a coin for each step but didn't have 136 coins to leave. Or even 42 if you are just supposed to put the one matching your sex.

This temple, number 23, is called Yakuōji(Medicine king temple). Not unsurprisingly from the name Honzon is Yakushi Nyorai or the Healing Buddha.

Another temple claiming Gyogi as the founder in 8th century by then ex-Emperor Heizei(interestingly in olden days Emperors of Japan were giving up throne for their heirs, or were forced to give up, very regularly. Currently it's not even possible according to Japan's law! Thing they are looking to change due to old age starting to make it hard for the Emperor to perform his job). Later Kobo Daishi would carve the statue of Yakushi Nyorai for Honzon.

This temple btw is bigger and grandioser than most temples. Not often I see or need map like this!

Climbing last few stairs of women stairways which leads to the belltower.

I read that there's Yakushi sutra(teachings of Buddha) actually buried in these stairs carved to small stones that were then buried while stairs were done, one letter per step. Thus climbing stairs is said to bring karmic bonus equal to chanting the suttra.

The bell! Too bad one forbidden to kong. Guess being top of a city would be neighbour nuisance.

And then to the male stairways...

But finally I was at the main hall. This temple actually TWO Honzons in this temple. Result of this miraculous story:

In 1188 the main hall was burned down but the Honzon, shining brightly, promptly flew away to safety. Later as temple was rebuilt Emperor ordered new statue to be carved as original one seemed lost. Later original statue is said to have returned to the temple that now found itself with two Honzons.

(Wonder how that story became along? Maybe somebody stole Honzon and burned the hall to cover it and later was somehow restored? Or something else?)

Statler says that this is one of the most popular temples on the pilgrimage, with half a million people visiting it each year. Since hefty chunk of those probably comes during peak season which is about 2 months....Well crowded! Even now with close to closing time lots of people were walking around.

Nice view over the Hiwasa town.

Ah the castle. Wish I had been able to go there but I need to slow down pace.

And then to Daishi hall.

The building I skipped rather than climb 61 stairs.

After temple was done I hopped to the lodging I had got right next to the temple. Lucky in hindsight! Original target would have been still some way to walk...

Room in the onsen I had booked. Well building was separate to the onsen itself.

Dinner that was part of the lodging.

But it was so small I bought ramen as well!

After having soaked myself and eaten I felt energized enough to go to nearby konbini to buy supplies. And noticed this sign. 77km to the next temple. Yup yup. Next 3 days will be just approaching temple. On the 4th I should reach it.

The temple building was shining brightly in the darkness(photograph is lighter than it was actually)

I'm going to use one of my two reserve days to slow down a pace after those 2 days. Now I plan to stop further from temple 24 than I planned(some 14km), then do temples 24, 25 and 26 staying in temple 26(hopefully) and then stop for same where I had originally planned to stop after temple 26. This means only 16km according to map for that day.

If that doesn't help i really need to consider putting this on stop for day or two(and if more than 2 means I can't finish where I intended). Ankles are really painful at the moment.

Oh and the old lady I met on route happened to stay here as well along with men from Saitama who said he had quit here last year from feet issues. I can understand that very well!