Woke up later than usual but had just morning things to do and pack my bag and leave. As there was no breakfest as part of plan I proceeded to the konbini instead for a quick breakfast. Change of pace but not pleasant one. Ah well. I can survive this once.
It was raining heavily from the get go
so I had full rain cover on. As I had stayed way off the pilgrim track
first order of business was figuring out how to get back to the pilgrim
route and preferably quickly! Easy to follow route would have negated
most of the help I got from doing the Kokubunji last night so instead I
took smaller through using map reading skill to get there.
Luckily it
wasn't too hard to get to the route 195 from which I had good route marker
in form of lawson from where to turn right, then just go until T-corner,
turn left and then on 2nd bridge turn right and back to pilgrim track!
7km or so walk later with brief stop at henro hut #5 and I was at the
temple 30 Zenrakuji.
Morning was up and around here school kids were walking on their way to school. That always brings smile on my face. Do your best!
Here path turned into a graveyard through which pilgrim path went.
Arrival to the temple #30 Zenrakuji(Temple of true joy). This temple has bit more complicated history than most and indeed for a while there were TWO temple #30's in this pilgrimage...
The temple here is the very first #30 but after the riots of Meiji restoration Shinto/Buddhism separation the temple was damaged. As such honzon, temple treasures and statue of Kōbō Daishi were transferred to temple #29 temporarily. Then later honzon was moved to Anrakuji which then decided to call itself temple #30 and pilgrims were even forbidden of going to original grounds of Zenrakuji.
Then half a century or so supporters of Zenrakuji transfered rights of old and unused temple from Tokyo to the site of Zenrakuji(goverment restriction of building new temples forcing to use rights to an existing temple). After getting enough money to build small temporary building they got back the Kōbō Daishi statue from temple #29 but Anrakuji refused to return the honzon.
This resulted in dispute that after few years resulted in decree that temples must merge(with Anrakuji as Oku-no-in of Zenrakuji) but this didn't lead to anything. Decade later Anrakuji was declared officially temple #30 with Zenrakuji as "A place of historical importance" with two temples ruled by same head priest. However in mid-1970's or so this got reversed with Anrakuji listed now as Oku-no-in.
Quite an argument out of which was temple #30 but obviously that has fairly big impact as the one officially part of the pilgrimage is quaranteed lots of visitors each year which results in plenty of cash(and money received from those using temple's services is only income temples have). Just for scale these days ~150,000 pilgrims travel the pilgrimage. Not all do it in one year though from walkers but bus ones do. Let's say 120,000 do every temple every year. Not all receive the stamp but let's say 110,000 do. That's alone 33000000 yens or around 284,000 euros in a year! Pretty significant effect temple gets by being part of pilgrimage. And many pilgrims, especially bus ones, spend more cash than that in temples....
Anyway the Anrakuji is so far off from my path that I figured I'll skip it. Would be nice but basically would need to have spent my last reserve day for that.
This temple is said to have been set up by Kobo Daishi between 806 and 810. Popular temple these days for students to pray for school success. Wonder why that is so? (well why students would pray I can understand. Japanese school is not easy one. But why this temple?)
Main hall.
There
was big group of pilgrims and boy do group pilgrims make NOISE compared
to single ones. Apart from chanting full voice(solo's often do it more
quietly on their own) they also use bells and drums to keep the pace
which again solo's don't. It's quite an interesting experience to watch
full group in process.
After exiting the stamp office I noticed
rather familiar lime green rain coat shape at the wash bin. The lady I
had stayed in same lodging day before and had met yesterday! What was
she doing here now around 8:30? Pilgrims usually start earlish and she
had said she was staying in lodging like 200m from here so even if she
started bit later than normal and was walking slowly she should already
be far ahead!
Going
to greet her and sharing mutual joy of re-meeting I learned out she had
had bit of a mixup with the lodging so couldn't stay there and had
instead had to go like 3km away from this temple and today backtrack.
Ouch. Well that explains being late. Maybe even started extra late to
recover from the extra walk last night.
Well
we had fun chatting before I left toward temple 31.
On route I spotted
middle aged men and we chatted briefly during the 3km or so before we
came to family mart konbini where I stopped for food and break. He also
stopped briefly to take out rain coat(like I also did) as it had stopped
raining for which might be for good as far as my trip goes. Let's hope
it STAYS out.
Haha. Rather funny official pilgrim route ;) Well need's must and seems there's road repair going on here.
With
food eaten and him far ahead I continued further south on my own.
Sight I saw repeatedly today. Cloud/fog in the mountains. I found that mesmerizing sight for some reason.
These things I hate. Can't just cross the road. Have to climb the stairs and go over the road.
Now
here's weird thing about this route. I'm pretty sure simply taking route
376 would get you faster but instead it goes east. Guess the walker
path over hill is historically important being traditional pilgrim
route? Or maybe 376 doesn't lead directly so you would have to walk long
way ANYWAY...
Either way not taking chances so followed map route which
led to climb over hill...and straight into botanical garden. Funny thing
is anybody could use this route to get to the garden without paying
entrance fee. It's 100% unguarded. Pilgrims btw don't even have to
pay(checked just in case when I came to ticket gate at the other side of
the garden) but the way to garden from there has no ticket gate. On the
other side yes but if you felt like sneaking in free just go from there
and exit from there and ticket gate is none the wiser...Japan! Things
just seem to work here.
Another temple credited to Gyogi around 724 by order of Emperor Shōmu after he had seen vision of Monju Bosatsu(Boddhisatva of wisdom) in a dream. This temple was modeled after (at least then) famous Chinese temple called Wu-t'aisan.
Another group was doing it's chants
while I arrived though they were at the Daishi hall so I got to visit
Main Hall on my own. Felt pretty tired already which was not good sight.
After doing both halls and visiting the big pagoda tower next to
them(and wish granting statue. I asked for healed feet!) I sat down for a
rest. 
Need to read above sign more to figure why but seems rubbing this statue you are supposed to receive good effects from it. Name of statue is good fortune child.
Daishi hall. Kobo Daishi is said to have restored this temple between 810 and 814 doing the ritual of Gumonji(chanting Kokuzo Bosatsu's mantra million times) here. How many times you can chant "Nobo akyasha kyarabaya om arikya mari bori sowaka"? Good tongue twister!
This 5 layered pagoda was completed in 1980 and at least some sources say this is tallest wooden built pagoda in Japan.
It was during this rest that young mother and her what looked
like maybe 4, 5 year old girl came to the temple area. I had fun
watching the little girl bounce around excitedly. Her cheeriness cheered
me up as well! Feeling extra oomph again while they headed for WC I got
inspired to prepare name slip that we give at each temple hall and as a
return for gifts.
When
girl reappeared and was running past I called out for her and said I'll
give this handing out the name slip. Girl was, understandably enough,
surprised to being spoken by foreigner but getting the name slip she
immediately dashed toward mother yelling "mommy mommy look what I got!"
loudly.
Guess
she liked it! Mission accomplished! It's just simple paper with my
town, country and name written in japanese so no harm giving(I could see
parents being more worried if I were to give some food item for
example!) and it's believed these bring good luck for receivers. Luckily
she also liked it :) Always nice to be able to give little nice
surprise for kids.
Good and happy life for you!
Bowing
for mother as she looked around receiving wave in return I then left and headed toward the temple
32. Start was this slippery and hard descent over rocky boulder areas. I
hate descending. Murder for knees. The same men I had met before was
also leaving(guess he had taken really long break at the temple but
those are good places for rests!) got to experience the slipperiness as
he fell down but luckily no damage.
From
here we walked together chatting this and that about 4.5km or so(so
maybe hour or so especially with the slow descent)
After
shortish break(I had longer one already in mind) I came into a pathway
covered by cherry trees. There was men taking photos with impressive
looking camera who then stopped me and showed how he had taken photo of
me! Pilgrim walking under cherry trees. That's actually not that bad
theme as far as photos goes though would have been better with better
looking pilgrim than me ;) I'm not even 100% traditionally clothed!
Anyway
he also took photo of me with my camera as well. Not in walking pose
like his but didn't even try to suggest that. More walking? No thanks!
:D
Photo quality not all that good. Maybe I had forgotten HDR mode on which in bit cloudy situation can lead into blurriness. Whoops.
Anyway
after this I headed for the restaurant ahead. I had considered not
taking break and just come here but the view had been so great I just
had to stop there. Anyway at the restaurant, noticing it would be taking
break so soon that I wouldn't be able to go to the temple, come back
and eat, I entered and took myself tonkatsu set meal. Good meal!
Nice little kitten. Come to papa...No? Damn. Cats here are even more suspicious of strangers than cats in Finland. Go figure.
Finishing up meal I prepared to climb the mountain. This is why I had
considered not eating first! Climbing with full stomach sucks! I met
american pair that's walking the kochi prefecture in reverse at the
foothill but soon enough left on my own pace leaving them behind.
Arriving
to the temple found another temple #32 Zenjibuji(The Temple of Ch'an Master's peak) I found it to be blessed with great views(well being on top
of mountain tends to give you good views!) and took some time just enjoying the view before heading to the main hall.
The temple was set up by Kobo Daishi around 807 to safeguard the ships at sea. Honzon(11 faced Kannon Boddhisatva) is also his work. He also performed the Gumonji ritual here as well. Due to origins still popular temple among sailors and fishermen.
The hill this temple is located is said to be in same shape as Mount Potalaka in southern India that's said to be the dwelling place of Kannon Boddhisatva.
Excellent view. Can't get enough of these kinds of views.
Alas
noticed the bell tower only AFTER doing main hall. Tradition says hit
the bell when you enter. Never when you leave(said to be you bad luck)
as older women pointed out. I pointed out I wasn't still LEAVING as I
had daisi hall to do first but she was adamant. Sigh. Never heard what
the tradition says about striking it mid-halls. But with her there figured
not worth it to break traditions. But so wanted to hit it! Love the
sound.
On
route I was caught up easily by the old women that was practically
running the way down! I was taking my care with uneven stones covered by
wet leaves but she? She just ran them down like it was nothing! She
noted she hates climbing but loves descenting. My reverse!
Well
she went off(even ground pace was also fast) so I trudged along. Clouds
were dissipating rapidly resulting in quite hot day with beautiful blue
sky.
Finally reaching Lawson store I dropped by for some on route snacks
tomorrow as IIRC route is fairly sparse with konbinis at first and then
headed toward bridge that lead to other side of sea I needed to pass.
Had seen photos of this bridge and it was indeed as scary to cross as it
looked. Very narrow walker path though at least cars usually gave extra
berth. Scariest were trucks passing suddenly by as the wind rocked you.
And it took 9 minutes to climb to the summit!
If there hadn't been request for walkers to not descent to car lane(like hell I go there!) I would have thought this is off limits for walkers...
And getting to other side...I found out I needed to climb the hill where
the lodging(which proved to be big luxurious hotel type of thing. 5
floors, 30 rooms. Bit surprised how few rooms for 5 floors). But got
beautifull beach views with exotic for me trees.
Getting
to lodging I first rested my feet a bit as usual and then true to norm
headed to bath right away. There was a japanese men there whom I had
stayed with on temple 26. For him today was his last day. He mixed me up
as swedish though. Well close ;)
View
from bath was amazing giving good view of cape muroto I had been
walking past week. Wish I could have got that view on my camera!
After bath some news reading before going into dinner which was
delicious with lots and lots of stuff. Spoke a bit with other guests.
Toward later half suddenly everybody got excited as they noticed the
full moon that was shining brightly.
After meal I went to room, put in clothes to coin laundry and put up blister tapes etc.
Tomorrow looks to be a long day ahead. About 30km plus amount in temples...Uhhuh. I might be tad late from lodging even. One of the toughest day left I think.
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