Day 12. Kochi prefecture strikes again!

After several days of lonely walks without temples I got into a day I would be doing some temples again. Even 3! This felt like a crowded day. Kochi has not only least number of temples to visit but also most kilometers to walk so 3 in a day is rare.

I woke up early as breakfast was supposed to be 6AM but it was even sooner! Well not that I minded so listening the sound of rain(it had started to rain in the night which I noticed when I woke up. Pleasant sound actually) I ate. The other pilgrim was also up. BTW forgot to mention he loves Sibelius(said he also has entire collection!) and also said(and host agreed) that it's the mountain cherry trees that are true original sakura and that the ones in cities etc now are "fake" ones(pretty fakes though). Interesting. He also lamented that with all the rain and wind forecasted sakura season looks to be quickly done. Late bloom, early fall.

Putting on full rain wear(well except trousers which I regretted quickly and put them on afterwards when I realized I would be having soaking trousers if I didn't) and forgetting map(oops instant return) I departed to the pouring rain.

And rain it did. Pouring rain. Not a drizzle but constant heavy stream. Not strong enough to prevent walking but discomfortable to walk in for sure. Continued almost non-stop until I reached final destination for the day. THEN it stopped...

Rice field getting peppered by the rain but guess it's good for rice planting.

Waves were even more furious than last day.

I learned out new annoyance from japanese narrow roads. Car passes you so closely if there happens to be pool you will get SOAKED. Though when that happened soaking my entire right half up to the face I was already so soaked it didn't make a dent.

Kochi is infamous for it's rain and it sure gave me rainy welcome!

Another school, this time elementary one.

I ran into another reverse walking pilgrim who gave me a warning the rain gets STRONGER around the other side of the cape. Hopefully it weakens a bit as this was already heavy enough!

With weather being what it was didn't feel like much pausing so was progressing at a nice pace. Took a break during which the mr. "46 kilometers in a day and still full of energy" caught up with me. Seems his departure was later than I thought as his speed was such that if he had left only little later he would have caught up sooner.

He outpaced me quickly but stopped them himself for a rest. I continued my way enjoying spectacle of waves crashing into rocks. Really quite beautiful to watch which cheered me up on this rainy weather.

Catching up with another pilgrim.

At least it was decent temperature. Not too cold and not so warm I would have started to steam. As far as walking in rain this was about as good as it can be.

Shortly before the temple at the end of the cape there is  the famous big statue of Kukai in his youth(so probably late 10's, early 20's). Saw pair of western women(from canada actually) emerging from a hotel(maybe same one I had originally planned to stay?), who I would be seeing regularly today. When I stopped for a toilet they went past as did the mr. fast legs who had caught up with me, again. Did I mention he's a fast one?

Saw this little worm thing on the road. Poor one has found a dangerous place to crawl on. Luckily spotted it and barely managed to avoid squashing it.

Alas the Mikurodo cave(the caves that Kukai is said to have spent 3 yeas before enlightement. Though some claim this is too inhospitable so he was actually near 26 but in 1000-1100 other monks had imitated him staying there in ascetic practices so it WOULD have been possible) was off-limits. Seems there's been rock falls due to erosion so until that's solved no entrance. Damn! That had been something I had hoped to do. Ah well. Short of risking major problem by trespassing(the reception house was still manned so risk of getting caught would be bigger than 0%) not to mention risking that rock fall happening not much I could do.

Leaving it behind I started climbing toward 24 catching up with the canadian ladies. Nice little climb to 120m or so to the first temple of the day and due to being connected to Kukai's enlightement area one of the more famous temple.

Quite a climb so with humidity up and trees covering a bit from rain I took off the rain coat to improve breathability. Did keep trousers though as taking them would be harder process without chair to sit on.

Fog or clouds or something covered the area leading to quite mystical look for the area. Should have stayed more there but wasn't feeling too pleasant due to the rain. It really saps your feelings.

Temple #24 is called Hotsumisakiji(Cape temple....How mundane name :D). Kobo Daishi is said to have set buildings here in 807 after returning from the China.  Unsurprisingly honzon(Kokuzo Bosatsu whose mantra Kobo Daishi had chanted here for a million times. As a minimum) is also his work.

BTW Kobo Daishi took here name Kuukai but seems he had also used before some other names similar to Kuukai(Sky and Sea) like 無空(probably pronounced Mukuu, no sky) and 教海(Kyoukai? Teaching sea?).

There's marble statues of Nyorin Kannon, Gakkou(who?) and Yakushi Nyorai that are national treasures. Wonder if this is one of them? Would they really be out exposed to weather? Also doesn't look like marble to me.

Main hall. Taking photos in rain is hard as can't keep camera out for a long time!

Daishi hall.

There's interesting large boulder with lots of small rocks that if you strike boulder with all result in different sound. Quite interesting. Wish I could explain but just had to try them all. One rock band!

Overall one of the more interesting temples. Without rainy weather making it bit chilly without walking to keep me warm though.

Descending from 24 the canadians overtook me when I stopped for toilet again(next one far away and I had time to kill so why not) so we talked a bit when I caught up with them. Seems they are leaving tomorrow. I seem to be running into many in part doers on their final days.

View from the above street was quite magnificient. Took a while zig-zagging my way down.

Trip toward next one consisted of long walk over Muroto town during which repetitive pattern emerged. I outpace the canadians, I take a break, they go ahead of me, repeat. I had so much time to kill I was taking breaks quite regularly here. Keeps legs going on, reduced time I arrive too early which I was sure would happen.

Another port town. Of course Kochi is full of port towns to pass through.

Before temple 25 there was pilgrim's station restaurant/store. Went there for a meal but they had just opened so were still preparing places. No problem. Had noticed pharmacy sign so went there first looking for some cream or something for dry skin. Closed. Next was store selling cosmetics so asked hopefully if they had something but no. Darn! Well back to the pilgrims station and sashimi set meal.

Tasty though less sashimi than I had hoped for. Plenty of other stuff so good enough meal but had hoped for few slices more as I like sashimi.

Going to temple 25, Shinshōji(The temple of the illuminating seaport), the stairway to the main hall was tall and steep. They sure don't make things easy these buddhists!

Somewhat interesting looking gateway. The temple buildings themselves are new ones are new concrete ones completed in 1975. Originally built around 807 when Kobo Daishi passed around to set up a temple to pray for rescue of any fishermen meeting natural disaster.

Steep stairways. Very steep.

Main hall. Yup rather unusual looking. Honzon is Jizo Bosatsu and seems there's supposed to be 10,000 of those statues around but didn't see any. Should have checked notes again there...Could have searched more around and even ask ticket staff. Really I take notes in advance and then during the walk don't remember to check them...Stupid. Well unless they refer to statues inside(lots) but not sure there was 10,000? Not that I explored insides thoroughly. Probably not even allowed to just wander around. But at least inside main hall statues are donated by pilgrims all over Japan and each holding a ship's wheel.

There's legend of Lord of Tosa castle(Yamanouchi) having his ship damaged by huge storm but Jizo Bosatsu took form of a priest and took control of floundering ship and steered him into safety.

During Meiji period's Buddhism/Shinto separation became abandoned temple for a while.

The Daishi hall right in front of the stamp office.

Canadians appeared as I was leaving main hall(they HAD to have stopped for meal as well. No way they could have been that far behind that despite lunch break they were still behind. I might be faster walker when I walk but not THAT fast).

This was last I saw them though as my path led next to chase for the konbini on the map. I bought some food items, used toilet and since briefly stopped rain had picked up put on rain wear(minus trousers) and moved on.

Wandering off the pilgrim's path I headed toward the konbini.

On route toward the #26 I spotted a pharmacy and went there. Got some cream(let's see effect) that is supposed to help with. Also bought some more pain killing tape thingies and got various stuff like bandaids as a free osettai. Too kind! (As it turns out didn't need all they gave though did use some of it so didn't go all to waste)

Turns out btw the staff that searched items I had requested had been to Finland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark lately and said she had liked Finland. That's nice to hear! We chatted some more about Finland before I left. Quite a surprise to have met here somebody who had just recently been Finland.

I also noticed that despite rain coat somehow or other my wallet had gotten wet enough the bills were...well partially wet! YIKES! Not even that little there at the moment. Transferred all bills to my backbag which is how it would continue for a time. Wallet refused to dry up quickly! This made paying bit harder though as getting bills from the backbag took more effort. Need to think something for next year. 

With time to kill and rain rest place with a roof was great news.

I was looking clock rather nervously as I feared I would be arriving way too early(funny time problem. Usually I'm nervous about coming too late! But the rain ensured I was walking at quite a pace and today would be short enough I had plenty of time at hands) as I didn't expect early check-in be as easy as last 2 days so I took it slowly and when I got into rest hut just sat there as long as I could before it got chilly. Continuing walk and stopping at any excuse I finally came into the mountain path and started climbing. AFTER removing rain coat. Even if trees don't protect me from rain being soaked by rain is preferable to getting soaked by sweat I would have been with the rain coat on!

From left to right:
Elementary 5th year student wrote "Whether giving or receiving greeting nice feeling"
Elementary 4th year student: Greetings warm everybody's heart.
Elementary 2nd year: Happy when greeting gets returned.

Wonder whose grave this is but guess fairly famous guy if his grave is marked like this.

Very small crab!

Quite a climb to finish up the day.

Arriving to the temple I was first invited for tea and light snack as osettai ran by 3 sweet old grandma's. Very friendly people and we chatted for a long while before I bid goodbye's leaving nameslip behind. Thank you! The climb had took wind out of me. Quite warm and due to rain VERY humid. Light taste like what pilgrimage would be in summer(though then would be even worse!).

Arriving to temple #26 Kongōchōji(Vajra peak temple, vajra being indestructable substance or truth).  Also called western temple while 24 is called the eastern temple.

Founded by Kōbō Daishi around 807 by order of emperor Heizei. It's said he came here often as a child to perform buddhist rituals in his quest for enlightement. Well by "child" probably in his late teens more likely.

Some scholars arque that Kōbō Daishi lived here while meditating on the cape citing harsh weathers making life on cave too hard. Others, using later Mount Koya priests who lived austere lives there as evidence Kōbō Daishi could have done it as well.

Not sure why but this felt another major step in this pilgrimage.

I took this temple slowly. There was another pilgrim who sure looked like a priest himself doing the temple as well. First time I have seen what looks like priest doing the pilgrimage.

Used to be very big temple with seven subshrines and 3500 koku of rice as possession(koku being amount of rice to feed single person for a year. In more modern terms 150kg or so)

Daishi hall. Legend has Kōbō Daishi chasing away daemons living in camphor tree in this location and then carved his image to the tree. This image is now held in Daishi-hall. This is the oldest building of the temple dating to around 1486. Rest were burned down in 1889.

There's set of treasures including personal items owned by Kōbō Daishi and scrolls containing basic suttras of Shingon Buddhism that are said to be 8th century copies of the original set Kōbō Daishi brought from China. Only few can see them though :-/

At the stamp office asked about the shukubo but got only indifferent way toward rear of house when asked where check-in is and "3pm" for when check-in is okay. About half an hour wait. Not too bad. Bit chilly but not unbearably so.

After 3pm left off and seached around for the temple lodging and took some effort to locate. Tricky place to find. Entered and got shown into a room with B.E.A.U.T.I.F.U.L.L. view outside. This was perfect place to just sit, stare outside and sip some tea(well once the tea water had boiled up).

4PM I entered the bath right away as is usual for me. Took a good long soak. During later half two other men came and we chatted a lot. Particularly the younger(though maybe still in 60's) was very talkative. Two days in a row I find somebody even more talkative than myself. Huh. I'm getting sloppy it seems ;)

After this I put in laundry in as I had only the set I changed into left as clean clothing before heading for room for some news checking before the dinner. But before we were called in I browsed shelf with books(didn't buy anything this time). Books about Kuukai, books about Cape muroto, books about buddhism, six-pack of asahi super dry...Got bit of WTF feeling going shelf by shelf and suddenly running into beer :D Something doesn't quite fit here! :D

The dinner...What a feast. And this time there was this rice+something and sashimi shared by table. I sat with the 2 men from bath, younger men doing reverse pilgrimage and older women.

Here btw I got case point in life why asking reasons for pilgrimage might not always be so good idea. The younger men doing reverse didn't seem that comfortable about that subject though missed start of conversation there so not sure quite why but yeah as he said "just because we might be smiling doesn't mean we are happy" or to that degree.

I ate, I ate, we talked. Lots of laughter, lots of stories. I ended up eating tons of sashimi and when our table ran out we got the plate from the second table that had eaten enough so I ate some more! Wonder how many slices I ate? It was so gooooo-ooood! We didn't quite clean the 2nd plate of their left overs but got close.

Gochiso sama deshita! as japanese say. Thanks for the feast!

After meal and hearing buddhist ceremony starts at 6AM I returned to room for writing notes etc.

Tomorrow is going to be tough day if I want to do fully. 26km or so to the lodging and if I still have time and energy do the 4km or so trip to temple 27 and back(but without backbag). This would allow me to avoid 16km or so day for next day but we'll see. Going to be long day if I do it. Though at least last 8km would be backbackless(or at least without contents if rain is there during which I would have to have backbag for rain cover for important stuff).