Day 5. And then sky said. Let there be rain!

Note: Forgot to write about history etc of last temple yesterday so quick note about  that:

Kanonji was built in 741 by orders of Emperor Shomu(who as might be clear already by now spread Buddhism a lot in Japan) in his goal of promoting Buddhism. 

Kobo Daishi is said to have visited this temple when he was 42 so around 816. He carved life-sized statue of 1000 armed Kannon Boddhisatva which became the honzon and is also credited for carving Fudō Myōō and Bishamonten statues that flank the honzon. 

Couple books mentioned crutches left behind by people who got healed and credited it for Kobo Daishi though didn't see those. Maybe they have been cleaned out later?

In the temple grounds there is supposedly a picture of a 19th century woman on fire. Legend states that the woman, named Shiyo, caught fire while here at the temple. This despite having her clothes soaked by rain. Fortunately, the fire was extinguished and she was saved. She realized that this was the Daishi punishing her for the sins of her youth, including beating her mother-in-law with burning sticks. Shiyo, herself, donated the painting to the temple in hope that this would help to keep others from repeating the same mistakes. 

Didn't see that. REALLY should check notes while in temple and was so exhausted wasn't doing much of temple exploration.

Oh and repost of these 2 pictures. Forgot to mention this was Jizo statue to pray for if you had kid crying at night. Heh.

Common topic last night and this morning at the lodging was weather forecast. Rain! Not from the start but would start in morning and would be colder than last day.

Breakfast was at 6:30 and it was tasty as usual except for one thing. Here it's common to have raw egg into which rice and soy sauce is mixed. Taste wasn't that bad but the feeling in the mouth made me almost threw up so didn't eat all. On more pleasant note the fruit was basically precut from the skin so ridiculously easy to eat. Korean women left first with me second and older guy was last. On way out I almost forgot room key to my pocket. Whoops! Luckily owner asked before I left. Sorry! I could forget my HEAD if it wasn't nailed on my shoulders.

Route to next temple was easy enough so I went forward leisuredly and got to shrine. Then I realized my feet felt odd...I had forgot to put on my outer socks that were in my room! AAARGH! What did I say above about my head!

Rushing back owner went and picked it up(sorry!) and I put them on and did restart with the mr F. It was leisured 2.8km or maybe 40 minutes to the next temple. Finding temples btw is generally easy. So many markers if you pay attention you don't need map. If you don't see one say 5 minutes and there's been crossings you probably have strayed off...

 Mr. F. Bit unusually he was also carrying second walking pole though didn't seem to be too happy about the idea considering instead to drop it later.


At the temple we saw the korean lady again. She is fast one! Ah to be as young again! And as fit!

 Temple 17 is called Idoji(Well temple). This one was set up by order of Emperor Tenmu in 674 so quite old one. It's name was different then though I don't know what but current name was received when Kobo Daishi dug up a well with his staff to provide a water source for sake of local farmers. He also carved 11 faced Kannon statue though actual Honzon is Yakushi nyorai.

Incent platform.

 

This is the well that is said to be dug by Kobo Daishi, named Omokage no ido(well of face). On a rather small hut and there's legend that if you can see your face you will have good fortune. If not expect misfortune in few years. Phew. Good thing I saw my face and have a proof of it ;) Seems Daishi carved statue of himself by reflection from this well. Wonder if that's the statue in Daishi hall?

The temple burned down in both the 14th and 16th centuries and was restored in the 17th century. The present concrete hondō was designed and built in the 1971 after yet another fire burned it down in 1968.

The main hall.

here's story about pilgrim who while closing his eyes while praying saw image of Kōbō Daishi who said he'll save his family. Later he found out that at the time he saw Kōbō Daishi his son's wife was involved in near fatal traffic accident but against all odds had survived.

Daishi hall.

We bid here goodbyes with Mr. F here for now as I would be taking the mountain road while he would go through Tokushima center.

Stopped at 7-11 to grab nikuman to bolster the breakfast that while tasty always leaves me bit hungry. Turned right to very narrow road. Not sure this was even the pathway marked in map but led to right place but damn cars went scarily close. Saw bit further how group of boys were practicing soccerr. Club? School gymnastic? No schools on my map but albeit it only tends to show immediate vicinity of henro path generally.

Entering bridge I needed to cross whom I saw on other side? Mr. F! I had stayed at the 7-eleven so he had catched up. There were 2 routes and I had wanted to go to konbini while he didn't need it.

Mr. F visible on right.

I crossed the street and we talked briefly before our paths separated again and I headed south toward Jizo-in. This would lead to mountain path highly recommended.

First though it went past big lake and then the temple itself where I met sweet old grandma who with gentle voice talked with me for several minutes and then apologized deeply for not having anything to give with her this time(usually she has she said). I said simply talking was enough which was simple truth. I enjoyed talking with her.

 Jizoin has unsurprisingly Jizo Boddhisattva(traveller of children and travellers) as a main deity. Seems Kobo Daishi built this one between 810 and 824. This temple is popular one for praying safe childbirth even now. Still apart from being built by Kobo Daishi doesn't have much connection with the pilgrimage.

She was also quick one to suggest I should find Japanese wife. LOL! That is actually quite a common suggestion when they ask am I single. Lol. Well that's easier said than done since I don't live in japan ;)

When I was ready to leave the Jizo-in it finally started to rain. Not much so wasn't too worried but put rain coat and headed toward mountain. Almost missed the path but remembered there was supposed to be one right after temple so looked back and there it was. Whoops.

 Easy to miss. Mind you this is looking from reverse direction from coming as I turned 180 degree around and saw this.


Car road is much longer so obviously I picked this one instead. So I started the climb and it was hot! Rain wasn't even falling here under the trees so I took out rain coat again. And climbed. Quite a steep little climb. Reaching summit older men was going down with big pile of empty bottles. Maybe he had been cleaning mountain in which case thank you!

Donning rain coat again I started descent wondering if I could find the onsen I had heard of and if I would have time. Prayer session at the temple lodging was 5pm so I wanted to be in before 4 to have time for bath.

Descent was at times VERY steep even forcing me to literally be a tree hugger to descent safely. 

 

As it turns out seems I missed it but at least feel less pressed for time and 2 baths in one day might be too much. Also after trip to onsen I rarely feel like doing much more than lay along so maybe best not to visit one with 20km or so to walk...

The yellow sign is actually sign for the onsen I had been eyeing for...WHOOPS!

I also was picking up problem with my left heel that was giving some pain. Not one to slow me down but uncomfortable. Right feet was totally fine. I looked for suitable rest positions on map but all that were konbini's ahead.

On route I lost way again but luckily I had feeling it was the case so verifying location from map I turned right joining right path with only minor detour.

to listen so good service! Good voice.

Let's become able to understand people's feelings.

 This bridge is actually designed that it can be submerged in case of flood and it's not bothered at all by it.

 And then I got into first konbini on the map so stopped in for a rest. I bought some food. Actually too much! Should have left something for later probably. The staff on the register had rather funny way of almost like sing all the things staff tents to say on shop(prices, what it is, then when she went to pick up nikuman and chicken thing that too was singing like). Actually quite pleasant though was glad she actually pretty voice or this could have been quite annoying.

Ate too much! Well sandwich went to backbag for later.

I rested my legs and used the toilet(thank you for free toilets in konbinis! Konbinis are henro-heaven) and then prepared to leave. As another staff member saw me packing up she actually dropped vacuum cleaner and bowed to me wishing me luck. Makes one blush!

Left leg was bit better though still tad painful. Still time to push forward. Rain was picking up. I moved toward with next goal being the rest hut on the map. And on route I AGAIN missed spot I should have turned left. Realized mistake, looked back seeing the right spot but knowing this road joins with it later anyway went just forward. This is tad longer route but going back would end up even more longer route.

 Blue plate on left. Note the number 55. That is road I would be hitting in a few days and then walk it like for over 100km almost non stop. That's going to be a road I'll be very familiar with after this is done...

And as can be seen rain has been going on.

 Now that's an impressive looking elder's care taking center though wonder what it looks like inside.

 Eventually I came to the rest hut and looky look. The Korean women! We chatted a bit commenting about ever increasing rain. Noticed she's collecting stamps for scroll. I would have liked one too but felt too hard to keep intact while walking. She left ahead as usual, I rested there for a while before leaving. This was long way between two temples but after this day would be almost over.

 This day had lots of walking of long straight road. .I almost thought I had lost my way again but this time I was on right path after all. I just thought I had gone further than I had. Heh.

 Wonder what this is.

 Rain was falling quite heavily which was certainly bit of a mood dampener. While rain wear kept me reasonably dry it still felt less pleasant than on dry weather. Ah well. Rain had to come sooner or later. There could have been worse days for rain like yesterday!

Reaching to temple 18 I took smallish path through sand just to avoid asphalt. From behind came japanese male in maybe thirties who took longer asphalt road and went right ahead me. He is fast! Also overtook the korean whom I had caught up as well.

As it was raining like hell I didn't feel like taking camera out of backbag so photos for this and next temple are with my phone instead.

 Niomon gate.

Temple 18 Onzanji(The temple of gratitude mountains) had two long strairways. First just to get there and then one to the main hall.

As I left the temple Mr. F came along as well still kicking well it seemed. Good luck! There had also been the french women I had met after Shosanji with whom I chatted a while. Hearing us speak in japanese the lady at the stamp office also decided to chat with me. I'm certainly getting chances to use japanese here.

 This temple claims Gyogi as a founder under order of Emperor Shomu. Gyogi is said to have carved the Yakushi Nyorai honzon. This somewhere between 729-749. Around this time this like all other holy mountains were forbidden for women who could approach no closer than nearby Hanaori no saka. Later when Kobo Daishi somewhere between 782 and 806(most likely IMO 792 or after) was staying here his mother came to visit but due to law was able to enter the temple. Kobo Daishi performed esoteric ritual for 17 days after which ban was lifted(wonder why ban was lifted for that reason?). Upon entering mother is said to have shaved her head and become a nun.

Kobo Daishi is said to have taken care of her mother after that the temple got ít's current name. Her bones are said to have been buried in this temple.

Main hall, daishi hall, bell tower etc are rebuilt versions after fire of 1898.

 Main hall with Yakushi nyorai statue said to be carved by Gyogi.

Daishi hall. Daishi statue inside is said to have been carved by Kobo Daishi himself in year 814 to banish banish bad luck from all people.

 Last temple and also lodging for today was #19. Path there led through some bambo forests with another barn along it which was nice  but eventually it joined back into city lanes.

 This was odd section. Markers led to this raised section. At first wondered why here but turns out if you go the road on left you would have to go bit further to find another section where to climb here and backtrack a bit.

 Wonder how many pilgrims people living in those houses see? With pilgrim path going right past their houses probably quite a few.

 There was familiar shape ahead(visible barely above picture on left side of road on far distance) but very far so I just moved along. Didn't seem to catch up but eventually she(figure turned out to be the french lady whom I easily recognized from her pilgrim staff that looked more like real tree branch, thin one, than the artificially cut one like I use) stopped twice allowing me to get close enough that I pushed last distance. We walked to the temple together.

 Ah the temple 19 Tatueji(Temple of arising bay). Yet another temple ordered by Emperor Shomu somewhere between 729 and 749. During construction process white heron is said to have landed on a bridge which was considered a good omen. Original location was about 400m west(so if it was still there today would have been shorter day :D) But Chōsokabe burned this temple after which it was rebuilt in current location. It was also burned down in 1977 forcing yet another rebuild.

Okay so Kannon hall to the left, Goma hall to the right. Gotcha.

 Main hall(I think). The honzon Enmei Jizo Bosatsu(long life Jizo Bosatsu) is mere 2 inches. There went my image of big statues as honzon! Carved by Gyogi(or so it's said) to pray for easy delivery for Empress Komyo. Later Kobo Daishi visited this temple and carved 6 foot statue(now that's more like it!) inside which the original honzon was put.

This temple is known as one of the "barrier temple" where those with evil intents suffer bad effect(blindness, immobility etc). There's legend about women in 19th century that came to Shikoku to hide from authorities after killing men whose mistress she was. They hid as pilgrims and reaching here while trying to ring the bell to start her prayers her hair suddenly stood on and got entangled in the bell's rope. After struggling she got herself free but hair and part of her scalp remained...She took this as sign from Kōbō Daishi and both became devout Buddhist. They spent rest of their lives in small chapel owned by the temple. 

I really botched this as it's said her hair and scalp can still be seen in a little glass-encased shrine which I forgot to check but in fairness have to doubt those would have survived like over 100 years...

 Daishi hall.

In the compound is said to have a small statue with a very shiny red face(guess who didn't search that either...). It is a statue of Binzuru, one of the first sixteen disciples of the Buddha. He was a physician and came from a family of distinguished physicians. But, he loved to drink and this often caused problems. One day, a rich man came to the Buddha and asked him to overcome an evil spirit that had been afflicting his house. The Buddha couldn't go, so he sent Binzuru in his place, but admonished him to be careful and not to drink. Binzuru went and did, in fact find an evil spirit. He confronted it and, by proclaiming the Buddha's teachings, overcame it.

In thanks, the rich man threw a banquet and Binzuru, after holding out for a long time, broke down and had a drink in celebration. Not being able to stop after just one, though, he got drunk and lost his power over the evil spirit. The spirit returned and soon the house was suffering again. The Buddha became mad and kicked Binzuru out of his community but said nothing when he saw that Binzuru was still following him around and listening from outside.

When the Buddha died, he called Binzuru to his side and told him that he forgave him, but that Binzuru would never be allowed to enter Nirvana himself. He would always have to remain in this world to minister to the people. That is why you see his red-faced statue at many temples. People rub the statue and then place the hand they used over the part of their body that hurts.

Finishing up the temple and being SOAKED I proceeded to stamp office that also served as temple lodging register. Paying 7200 yen and giving needed info(name, address, passport number) I was shown to my room.

I also verified whether I could leave or not around 7pm. Nope closed then. Expected as much but japanese person I had talked in internet had said last night that he would like to meet me this day coming from Okayama(whee). Alas due to his work he couldn't come before I would be locked up in the temple so had to cancel that one. Seems he has other plans that interfere with weekend which would be much better dates as no temple lodging then.

I had to wait about half an hour before bath was ready(darn!) so instead did some lodging booking. Got where I needed for tomorrow which is good because there wasn't much good alternatives. Less well news was that the sunday planned lodging is closed/on holiday and plan B was full.

Plan C: Sleep outside, no tent, no sleeping bag...Fail!

Plan D: Walk less on sunday but go where you have to backtrack and don't walk as far as planned on monday while still walking more on monday than planned. Possible,

Plan E; Train station is close to #22. Use it to get close to hotel. I actually went for this as it means I'm still on schedule without having to spend spare days. It also means sunday I have no worries about schedule as I went for business hotel(same as last sunday) so can check in late at night as well. Then on monday morning back to temple 22 by train.

Obviously not "pure" as now I won't do only walking but I still walk more than i would have if i had got my lodging as planned. Not shortcut and I'mm not purist enough to sleep outside without sleeping gear. So it was train or use one of the two reserve days.

After this I entered bath which felt great and then I joined in the buddhist ceremony. Different one to last one and I had harder to follow up. First while priest was chanting same chant over and over we guests had to go front and throw some incent I think to flames. Then some group chanting. Well more like priest and one japanese men chanted(he was good!). I tried but couldn't follow up where they were in suttra book so had to stay quiet most of the time.

After this priest spoke(in japanese) telling about history of this temple including about the small honzon in the heart of the big one. Then we were able to get close to the honzon and look around.

After this it was then time for dinner where I sat with the french women talking endlessly in japanese.

On my way to room another group of french(there was trio doing pilgrimage together apart from the women). We talked a bit, then one asked where I'm from. When I said Finland he or she said "Oh you are him!". Seems they had heard of me before from another pilgrim I had met before. Haha! Word spreads around among pilgrims. Certainly I have heard of several other foreigners who I might meet later.

Rest of night was taking notes and relaxing and preparing for next day.