Woke up about 45 minutes before breakfast that was tasty as usual. Night had been tad chilly though as I could feel wind on my skin during night! Good thing room had heater...Though could be bigger! Japanese sizes. No morning prayers to attend so after breakfast I packed up and left. I had not done the Anrakuji properly yesterday coming so late so I did it now and got my stamp before heading to the next temple that was short trip ahead.
Last night btw priest had been talking about how number of temples offering lodging has been steadily decreasing. In olden days well over half the temples had been offering but these days much less. Especially Ehime and Kagawa prefectures have few temples offering. And it's not just Shikoku but elsewhere too. In the other famous pilgrimage of Saigoku only 1 out of 33 temples offer lodging.
Last night btw priest had been talking about how number of temples offering lodging has been steadily decreasing. In olden days well over half the temples had been offering but these days much less. Especially Ehime and Kagawa prefectures have few temples offering. And it's not just Shikoku but elsewhere too. In the other famous pilgrimage of Saigoku only 1 out of 33 temples offer lodging.
This is aparantely one of the oldest surviving maps of shikoku pilgrimage. I was staring at it long time trying to make some sense of it as...well it didn't seem to make any sense! Then I realized north was down, south up. Haha. Well north/south and which is up is ultimately matter of convention rather than absolute truth.
Small breakfast.
Temple 6 where I was staying is called Anrakuji(temple of everlasting joy) with Yakushi nyorai for first time in this pilgrimage where honzon was the healing buddha. But not last as apart from various forms of Kannon Boddhisatva Yakushi is most common Honzon. Maybe related to leg pain pilgrims are bound to get :D
Could also be related to area being known for many natural hotsprings(temple's 2nd name is indeed hot spring mountain). Originally this temple was located about mile north where Kobo Daishi visited the Anraku valley and struct his staff into ground resulting in hot spring said to be curative bursting forth(Kobo Daishi has lots of spring/well related legends attached to him....). Later after Chōsokabe's forces burned temple down it was rebuilt in present location. Main hall is most recently built again after 1955 when fire burned old one down.
There was lots of other pilgrims staying same time as I and this was no surprise as this has been from old days popular place to stay for pilgrims and infact in Edo period this was one of the 8 temples in Tokushima prefecture that were specifically tasked with providing lodging for pilgrims. Also good hot bath(though not natural hot spring) is also attraction I'm sure :)
Main hall and nokyocho(stamp office) were rolled in one here. Usually they are in different buildings but here and there they are combined. Guess it allows nokyocho staff to see if you chant or not ;)
This is(one type of) candle holder. Basically tradition is to put in one candle there to burn(preferably from rear to front, up to bottom to make sure next pilgrims have easier time putting theirs) as offering to the Buddha, Kōbō Daishi, and the dead. You then use the flame in candle to light up three incents. These have different meanings depending on what sect you are in. For example they could be to venerate the deities and the dead. Other? Offering of respect and welcome to the Buddhas, much like putting flowers
on the table when you are expecting guests to dinner. It symbolizes the
practitioner's commitment to helping all beings and hurting none.Yet another it is a symbol of the unity of oneself, the Buddha and all beings, as well as a visual reminder of impermanence. I think others use it to symbolize cleansing of your thoughts, speech and actions.
The big tree in picture is calle d"Sakasa pine" and is one of the hallmarks of the temple said to be planted by Kobo Daishi. If true that's 1200 year old tree. Feeling suddenly young myself!
Both temple 6 and 7 offer lodging so maybe that's why both temples were busy with bus tours. I met a danish couple who had stayed at same logding again at the temple 7 and would be meeting them on and off today..
Main hall hosts another Amida buddha honzon. There are said to be 8 form of suffering(birth, getting old, being sick, dying, inevitable separation from loved ones, not getting what you seek, getting what you don't want, impermanence of things, ie you have something but it eventually goes away). With help of Amida Nyorai receiving 10 types of cure for these to conquer the suffering is origin of the name of the temple.
Kobo Daishi is said to have arrived here wandering around Shikoku and in process of ascetic practices saw a vision of Amida Nyorai carving it afterwards from nearby tree which became honzon of this temple.
Unsurprisingly Chōsokabe's forces burned this temple as well after which temple was rebuilt in current location. Honzon itself was only saved by resident priests efforts.
Leaving temple 7 I might have went off route the pilgrim route but got on right direction roughly anyway. But maybe I could have avoided some asphalt route?
I seemed to pass barn somewhere as I heard surprisingly cow noise. Ammooo!
And it's the Niomon gate for temple #8 which seems to be considered one of the finest ones in this pilgrimage. It is said to have been built in 1687-88 and legend has it that robbers once lived in the second story though this is discounted by Statler. And certainly seems odd hiding place. I mean one would think they would have been found pretty easily on this public location...
Though after this it still took some time to get to the temple. Unusually long road between Niomon and main buildings.
The main hall of temple 8 Kumadaniji(Bear valley temple) with 1000 armed Kannon Boddhisattva Honzon. Luckily name didn't mean lots of bears around :D Indeed in Shikoku there's like dozen or so known bears and they are more on the interior area while I'll be on coast area so odds of running into one are astronomically small(hopefully not the famous last words...)
Founded by Kōbō Daishi in 815 while doing ascetic practices here. Shinto kami(god) of present location presented him with tiny golden statue of Kannon Bosatsu. Kōbō Daishi put this statue along with another relic into large statue of 1000 armed Kannon he had previously carved in the valley.
On at least one occasion the Daimyō of Awa Province was known to have visited this temple (during the Tokugawa period) for a moon viewing party with his warriors.
The hondō burnt down in 1928 and was rebuilt 13 years later in 1941 but Daishi-hall has escaped fires and the statue of Kōbō Daishi carved in Muromachi(1336-1573) period has also survived. Second oldest statue in the Tokushima prefecture.
Frederick Starr states that in ancient times the temple was deeper in the valley, but Kōbō Daishi transferred it to its present location.
To get to the Daishi hall I still had to climb some more stairways. Old priests sure didn't want to make their temple buildings to be located in nice flat area...Actually simply getting to the temple had already required long stairway which is said to be on the long side in the pilgrimage...
But finally got to the Daishi hall.
Streets of Shikoku are eerily quiet especially on mornings. If you think Japan is all crowded go to Shikoku! You can see towns that are about as quiet as my birth town during winter! In otherwords not a soul to be seen at times...Sure feels weird.
As I was walking onward there was range of mountains on my left that kept drawing my eyes as I started to suspect that would be where next day's Shosanji temple would be. That's infamously regarded as hardest temple to reach. Still looked far away but I would be close to foothills by the time day would end.
Suddenly I had come into flat area that apart from mountains in distance could slot into Finland without looking that weird!
After temple 8 I was getting hungry and the day''s trip didn't have much
choices in terms of food so I knew I had to stop at the restaurant
before temple 9. Turned out it too was Udon so Udon seems it would be
choice of food today. I went with Tsukimi udon which is basically udon
with raw egg. Whoops Well I could eat its so no problem but first time
eating raw egg. Well first time for everything they say. Also got some potatoe
like things you can eat just like that as osettai. Thanks! Spent lots of
time talking with owner and customer that had been there as I arrived.
Outside temple 9 Horinji(Dharma wheel temple. Term Dharma has no direct translation to english but best ones would be probably cosmic law&order or teachings of the Buddha) there was another
pilgrim doing takuhatsu or begging which is one of the forms of
asceting practice you can do. Less common these days as begging isn't
generally viewed that favourably. Still what he did was chant loud
suttras with bowl for money. I figured if somebody has guts to do it
might just as well support it so gave him 500 yen coin. Worth it just for the sight(or rather sound) of it in any case!
Temple 9 there was lots of old ladies with kids along. Something I have noticed. Grandmoms showing old traditions to grandkids?
This temple has reclining Buddha as honzon which is extremely rare honzon in Japan. This represents Buddha when he passed away. Too bad this honzon is also hidden one visible only once every 5 years with next chance being 2019...Bummer. Wonder what time of year? This honzon carved by Kobo Daishi(who is also credited as founder of the temple) is only one in the pilgrimage of reclining buddha and not many elsewhere in Japan either.
Luckily when Chōsokabe's forces burned the temple down(again...) the honzon was saved and the temple that had previously located in nearby valley was rebuilt in present location. Between 1854-60 everything but bell tower was burned down again...
The honzon is locally popular for healing and curing illnesses of the feet and the waist.(Feet? Sign me in!)
Daishi hall.
The great teacher. That hat is rather inconvenient for taking photos...
This is local speciality called kusamochi. rice-flour dumblings mixed with mugworth. Taste is not that bad but boy does your throat become dry!
Path toward temple 10 was about 4km long walking along empty roads in
middle of fields. Very little wind cover and strong winds. Felt like in
Huddersfield when I was studying there about decade ago. With mountains on left and right also similar to
Huddersfield. Maybe same reason with moutains on both sides resulting in
wind tunnel effect? Mountains on left were scary as I figured those
were the mountains I would be climbing tomorrow.
The wind made me glad I had bought replacement for string that's used to tie the conical hat to your head. That's rather flimsy and tough way so I bought modern replacement that has clip you put in. Easy to put in(though bit short for me), easy to take out and sudden wind blasts don't worry me. This hat ain't going anywhere no matter how wind blows!
Here was one of the more odd henro trails. This isn't even marked on the map book! I could get to the temple by going straight which is basically straight road. And as it turns out I joined with same road...So this actually just lengthened the trip. Guess that was traditional route and maybe this road wasn't originally there and it was less passable or something? Either way didn't even prove to be escape from asphalt so unless you are really a stickler for following route marked by markers(and keeping mind map says go straight...) I would just go straight rather than turn right. Views weren't particularly inspiring either.
Danish couple was ahead but wasn't able to catch up. They walked pretty fast. Benefits of lighter backbag! (and being in better shape). This would be last temple for them as they were walking only first 10 temples(which btw originally was small pilgrimage of it's own so fairly appropriate if you walk only short section :D If you want taste of pilgrimage this much is pretty good section to choose)
Niomon gate of temple 10 Kirihataji(cut cloth temple).
Shortly after passing through this I met the japanese lady I had met yesterday in
train and in dainichi-ji. He had got car drive to temple 8 so was
slightly ahead. Always joyous event to meet somebody again!
This would be tallest location I would climb today at 150m or so. And that's a lot of stairs. Not even all visible...It was like climb one set of stairs and see another set ahead you. I hate stairs. Climbing on mountain road is fun. Climbing stairs is hard on your knees.
Before heading to temple proper there's the nokyocho in this rather restaurant-looking building.
This temple has it's origin related to another story about Kobo Daishi. One day he was walking around here and his clothes had become pretty worn down so he needed new ones. He saw a young women weaving a loom and asked for one which she did without hesitation.
He talked with the girl asking how she had came to be here and she told him that she was daughter of court lady that had become caught in palace intrigue and was pregnant with the child of a banished husband. Mother prayed to Kannon for a girl as girl would be protected from the reprecussions of the scandal. After girl was born Kannon appeared to mother and warned her to take the child to Shikoku. Grateful and moved by the story Kōbō Daishi carved 1000 armed Kannon statue and baptizised the girl. Girl is then said to have shone in 7 colours and transformed into Kannon.
Frederik Starr told of another version how Kōbō Daishi asked the girl for a piece of the cloth, which she gave with no questions and no sign of regret. When asked why she so willingly gave it, recognizing her high blood, she told how her parents had died while she was still young and that she had come at the guidance of the Buddha which she received in a dream. Therefore, Kōbō Daishi ordained her and she become a nun in order to save all persons.
Either way later Kobo Daishi asked permission from Emperor to build this temple. Due to the legend this temple is also known as Tokudozan(ordination temple) and is particularly popular among women.
This is the main hall that hosts 1000 armed Kannon Boddhisattva statue. Oku-no-in(elsewhere) hosts secret statue of the girl said to have transformed into Kannon.
And the Daishi hall.
And another chance to ring a bell! I'm feeling like kid again every time I got to hit one of these. This was particularly impressive though. Not sure why but this made VERY loud sound. Every time somebody struct it it sounded clearly and when I did it made me jump a little out of surprise at just how loud it was.
I just wish I had had chance to come here either about month before(well since this was particularly cold spring so far maybe 3 weeks before would have been okay as well) or tad later as this place seems to be famous for plums(already over) and cherry trees(still not blooming at least in full bloom).
There was tower of some kind that seemed rather interesting side trip so went there. Some more stairs though...But I had time I figured as it was around noon and only about 9km(so like somewhat short of 3 hours or so) to the next temple plus like 2km more to the ryokan.
Temple has been burned down twice but despite that most of the temple treasures have survived.
I was rewarded with nice view and meeting of couple from denmark that were walking the first 17 temples. Husband suffered bad luck having broken his arm just few days before departure. Ouch. And neither speaks Japanese! I would be too scared of walking here without at least enough japanese for emergency situations :D
Eating kusamochi and some candies I received as osettai(thanks!) I rested and then departed toward temple 11 stopping only to get fresh suttra book as I had managed to break already 2 of those. Damn! The white shoulder bag is nice but tad crowded.
As I was resting here something almost happened that I had been worrying bit from the get go. In crowded temples there's lots of pilgrims with lots of walking staffs. I had been worrying whether either I would pick somebody's out of accident or somebody would pick mine. Well here one almost did as his group member had tried to be helpful and had already picked his(which had same coloured top as mine had) so he picked mine instead which was waiting on staff holder. Luckily I noticed what was happening and it got sorted out.
I generally try to leave my staffs on some bit out of way staff holder that's there precicely to avoid this. Some people put some own accessories hanging to identify their staff. Nice idea but don't have one.
As I left the temple another group was going up. I greeted and assured they were almost there and with couple stopped for a chat which was nice.
As I was resting here something almost happened that I had been worrying bit from the get go. In crowded temples there's lots of pilgrims with lots of walking staffs. I had been worrying whether either I would pick somebody's out of accident or somebody would pick mine. Well here one almost did as his group member had tried to be helpful and had already picked his(which had same coloured top as mine had) so he picked mine instead which was waiting on staff holder. Luckily I noticed what was happening and it got sorted out.
I generally try to leave my staffs on some bit out of way staff holder that's there precicely to avoid this. Some people put some own accessories hanging to identify their staff. Nice idea but don't have one.
As I left the temple another group was going up. I greeted and assured they were almost there and with couple stopped for a chat which was nice.
Then I came to fork. I could turn left, head to long bridge and konbinis. Or I could head forward and do maybe 700 meters shorter route...I took long route as that was quicker way to konbinii and food! The route toward bridge went through this VERY narrow roads. Hard to believe they are 2 way lanes but I saw in separate times cars going both ways.
Pair of older men in smallish truck stopped as they passed me and did the standard questions(what country, how old, how many temples you are walking etc) from which talk went to other subjects as well.
Group of boys who looked like high school kids came from ahead with fishing rods on their bikes. Couple even yelled out greeting in english as they passed me by which I replied in kind.
Here's btw good spot explaining one cute litle tradition among pilgrims regarding bridges. There's legend how Kobo Daishi was walking in western Shikoku in what's now Ehime prefecture and one day he stopped at a town asking from people place to sleep but was always refused. Without other options he finally decided to sleep under a bridge. This is generally believed to happen either november or december(forgot which one) and was unusually cold night with travellers walking above bridge hitting the bridge with staff. Noise of that and extreme cold made for one hard night he later compared as feeling like ten nights.
As a result even these days out of respect for great teacher who might be sleeping under the bridge you walk(remember there's the belief he's still walking the pilgrimage) pilgrims don't hit bridge with their staffs when they cross bridges.
Generally not problem following that but on these long bridges lack of support I get from staff while walking is felt. Especially today when I was already pretty tired at this point. Ah well. Bit my teeth and walked it staff on air.
And another old guy came with bike and did the standard question pattern. Hehe. You have to be prepared to answer same questions pretty often!
Arriving to temple 11 whom I met? The same japanese lady I had met yesterday and today! We exchanged words(along with another lady she was with) and I gave them half my photos(another way to loaden up. Since nobody wants to TAKE a photo I just show them. Works well enough it seems and I need only to carry 1/4 of them) and got 3 rice cakes with me. I ended up giving 2 to another pair from denmark who would be doing pilgrimage for about 20 days(so close to my plans). I also peaked at the path toward Shosanji...Tomorrow it begins.
But before that I still had to do the temple 11 Fujiidera, the Wisteria temple, with Yakushi nyorai as honzon. Hey Yakushi Buddha. I could do with some help with my feet right now!
Well the healing buddha here wasn't chosen as honzon for sake of weary pilgrims but because Kobo Daishi founded this temple when he visited this area between 810-812 and found out people were suffering from disease/plague. Exact place is supposed to be on nearby hill but lack of time and strenght meant I didn't try to search for it.
Actual honzon itself is also credited for Kobo Daishi though pretty sure that's incorrect as name and date(which match with year 1148 in western calendar) is visible in it....
Honzon has got itself quite a reputation for being able to escape disasters as this temple has burned down many times, including obviously by Chōsokabe and another fire in 1832 yet honzon has always managed to escape the fires. As such people wishing to escape some disaster come often here to pray for help.
This is unusual temple in that it's Zen buddhism(not many those in shikoku pilgrimage) to which it converted during Tokugawa period. Latest rebuild is from 1860.
But before that I still had to do the temple 11 Fujiidera, the Wisteria temple, with Yakushi nyorai as honzon. Hey Yakushi Buddha. I could do with some help with my feet right now!
Well the healing buddha here wasn't chosen as honzon for sake of weary pilgrims but because Kobo Daishi founded this temple when he visited this area between 810-812 and found out people were suffering from disease/plague. Exact place is supposed to be on nearby hill but lack of time and strenght meant I didn't try to search for it.
Actual honzon itself is also credited for Kobo Daishi though pretty sure that's incorrect as name and date(which match with year 1148 in western calendar) is visible in it....
Honzon has got itself quite a reputation for being able to escape disasters as this temple has burned down many times, including obviously by Chōsokabe and another fire in 1832 yet honzon has always managed to escape the fires. As such people wishing to escape some disaster come often here to pray for help.
This is unusual temple in that it's Zen buddhism(not many those in shikoku pilgrimage) to which it converted during Tokugawa period. Latest rebuild is from 1860.
And the main hall.
With
all the talking I was in bit of a rush so I rushed toward Sakura
ryokan. I got there about 10 minutes before 5 so same time basically as
last night. And both days about 30km long so similar days all in all
distance and time wise.
Host was also friendly and helpful fellow but boy was he also busy one! (unusual also in that he was a he and not a she. Generally lodgings seems to be run by women but this one was one of the few ones I ran into where men seemed to be in charge) If he wasn't specifically leading me somewhere he was running somewhere. Sometimes he had to apoligize for having to sort out something before he could help me. I found this somehow rather amusing though hopefully for his sake every day isn't quite as hectic! When poor fellow would have time to even breath?-)
There
was another pilgrim on the ryokan. Men, 70 years old, walking the
pilgrimage in reverse order! And not that slowly either. Last night he
had been outside of temple 13 and now here. Over 30km with serious
mountain in the between! Wonder if I'm even alive at the same age
nevermind walking over 30km in a day. From his looks by his request I
guessed his age at 55 or so. Whoops! So off!
He
mentioned interesting thing. Seems he had visited china some time ago
and visited temple there that can be considered as temple #0 of this
pilgrimage. Guess this is related to Kukai having studied in China.
Probably the one where Kukai studied under Huikuo. Never heard any
temple being referred as temple 0 before though.
Less convenient feature of my room was those gaps above to rooms adjacent. As can be seen while they have light it shows to my room well as well. Obviously same goes for my lights and their rooms. Wonder what function those gaps serve? And walls were quite literally "paper thin" so music they had played earlier had also heard loud and clear. Well they stopped that well before I was thinking about going to sleep(and here I'm going to sleep unusually early for me) so no harm.
Tomorrow is finally waited and dreaded Shosanji. Long climb at mountains going up, down, up, down and finally up. Getting to next lodging I need to do some lodging booking as well.
Hopefully lightened bag helps though not that visible tomorrow due to water and food. But those lighten as I consume them.
I also realized I had unexpected problem. Trousers are tad too large. Weird as I don't think weist has shrunk this quickly and we just bought but guess we didn't check too well what happens on walking with wallet etc inside. Good thing backbag works as sort of a belt...
I also realized I had unexpected problem. Trousers are tad too large. Weird as I don't think weist has shrunk this quickly and we just bought but guess we didn't check too well what happens on walking with wallet etc inside. Good thing backbag works as sort of a belt...
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