Day 1. Up to Anrakuji

Previous night had had some trouble sleeping. Guess I felt too excited! Finally I fell asleep and woke middle of the night. Felt like had got long sleep but boy did I feel like brain was still racing. I checked clock and...Half past midnight. So much for long sleep. More like 2 hours! Luckily after that fell quickly asleep again and woke up bright and early I. Iwanted to take 6:11 train to make it to the first temple before it opens to do chants etc and take photos before it opens to get myself on the way quickly. Plan mostly worked. Took more time in the temple than I anticipiated but was still on the move reasonably early. On the train there was another obvious walking henro. We changed greetings. I would see him on temples 2 and 3 but on 3rd he left before me and I didn't see him again. Another memorable person was this little boy who looked like going to kindergarden with his mother dressed up like a little bear :)

Nice weather to start with and I liked early sun light.

As I had already been here yesterday it was dirt easy to find my way so early on I arrived to the temple #1, Ryozenji(Vulture's peak temple). This temple has Shaka Nyorai aka the historical Buddha you might be familiar from history lessons as the main deity of the temple. This temple dates it's history back to 8th century when priest Gyogi under command of Emperor Shomu set this up(at least according to official story. Many historians are however in doubt did Gyogi ever actually VISIT Shikoku let alone set up any temples! Despite this over 30 temples claim him as temple's founder).

Kobo Daishi meanwhile visited this place in 815 and saw vision of Shaka Nyorai(aka the Buddha) preaching lotus suttra on vulture peak(mountain was it in china or india) and to commemorate that carved the honzon and gave the temple new name. This honzon(statue of deity of temple) is nowadays particularly famous among students to pray for academic success. Temple also hosts statues of Dainichi(Mahavairocana, personafication of reality itself) and Amida Nyorai said to be Kobo Daishi's work.

 Already at 7AM there were pilgrims at the main hall. Busy temple this one.

 Statue of Kannon Boddhisatva I remember well from my last trip.

 And this is the Daishi hall(pretty sure on that...) that hosts statue of Kobo Daishi.

 Kobo Daishi himself.

Bell tower. These I loved thorough trip. You can't ring all(to avoid annoying people living nearby) byt every time you could I gleefully rang it. Loved the sound!

This temple has been burned down many times over it's history including what is very repeating story of Chōsokabe Motochika and his armies burning down this in 16th century. He was daimyo(ruler) of Tosa(nowadays Kochi prefecture) who conqquered in 16th century entire Shikoku under his command and in the process burned down most of the temples in this pilgrimage. In addition this temple was burned down in 19th century likely(but not definitely) related to the anti-buddhism movement started by Meiji goverments decision to forcibly separate Shintoism and Buddhism and promote Shintoism as state religion. And current buildings were completed in 1964 with restorations on main hall going on as I visited. I always thought temples were this very old buildings preserved centuries but they are actually rebuilt quite frequently!

Temple 2 Gokurakuji(Pure land temple, or maybe paradise temple) is only few hundred meters to west so no big challenge. On route stopped for breakfast boost on konbini. Arriving to the temple I had some trouble finding where everything is as it was bigger than I expected, This one is dedicated to Amida Nyora who is one of the deities in Buddhism I'm not quite sure what he represents. There's also hall for  Kannon Bodhisattva here.

Early up from temple 1. This is when I really felt I had started the long pilgrimage! Felt excitement and nervousness in equal measure. It really had started! How long my legs would hold? What I would see? Who I would meet? Let's find out!

As with last temple Gyogi is claimed as founder but evidence points more toward Kamakura period(13th century) as real date. Honzon is also credited for Kobo Daishi which is odd if temple is Kamakura period but possible it was of course elsewhere.

 First sight of Niomon gate of the temple(gate is called niomon if there's 2 nio guardians flanking. If not it's sanmon gate).

After long climb of stairs(what else. Very common feature in this pilgrimage) I arrived to the main hall. Too bad honzon(and statues of historical buddha and yakushi nyorai along side honzon) is hidden one so not visible to public viewing. That's unfortunate tradition for quite a few. Some temples at least show like every 5 years or something. Maybe every year if you are lucky.

 Yet another statue of great teacher Kobo Daishi.

 And another bell that I love!

 This one caught my interest. Seems this temple serves as 11th temple of another pilgrimage related to Yakushi nyorai. Could be wrong but that's impression I got from the text. Not that this is that unusual to have temple serve as some temple of many pilgrimages. I think I have read of temple that's part of like half a dozen pilgrimages!

I think these are the Jizo statues that have stories of miraculous healing attached like of a man who had had stomatch surgery who was suffering from fever that did not drop at all. Eventually recommended by another person he chanted mantra's for these statues upon which fever went away like a reclining tide.

Another legend says that long time ago honzon let out bright light that disrupted local fishermen. They solved it by building artificial hill between bay and the hall thus blocking light. Temple's mountain name(sun light mountain) originates from this legend.

 Often enough temples have beautiful and relaxing garden!

This is 1000 year old cedar tree named long life cedar tree. It's said to be planted by Kobo Daishi and is said that if you touch it you are granted long life. Except it's now prohibited to touch(probably to ensure it doesn't get damaged by over eager pilgrims) and instead there's connecting robe you are supposed to touch with supposedly feeling energy from it.

Long life or not I know I prefer touch of wood over that of a robe.

Tree is also famous for supposedly easing child births of all things. There's legend of women who, after miscarrying several children, went off in pilgrimage in reverse order to find Kobo Daishi(who is believed to still walk this pilgrimage in clockwise order) for help on her current pregnancy. She got her labour pains just as she arrived here and credited Kobo Daishi for helping her to give birth to healthy child.

As a result there are numerous Jizo statues donated by women after births with names of child seen around.

Many books state that, throughout the pilgrimage, the temples with the newest buildings and the most opulent displays are inevitably those dedicated to childbirth.

And this temple was also burned by the Chōsokabe's forces...

When I went to nokyocho for my stamp the ladies there happy to look at the photos of finland I had with me but what would become repeating pattern refused to take one. I have 4 copies of each and can make more! Taking one makes my bag lighter :) Well just looking is fine and provides fine source for conversations. But maybe I should ditch idea of giving photos and save some weight if nobody takes one! 10 past 8 I left temple 2 and headed toward next temple.

Temple 3 was also nearby so didn't provide much more than street walking. However it did pass through some narrower lanes and past one graveyard so I was out of main streets for a while.

 These kind of markers were...well pretty much everywhere so finding temples was rarely issue. If I didn't spot one of these soon could generally be sure I got lost so just backtrack a bit! Or look for map for way to rejoin correct path.

And arrival to temple #3, Konsenji(golden spring temple. Spring as in water spring, not season). This one is another temple for Shaka Nyorai(historical buddha) and is again said to be set by Gyogi by order of Emperor Shomu. Original name was actually golden light temple but after Kobo Daishi dug a well here that he named golden well when he saw joy of locals who by then were suffering from drought. He also renamed the temple.

Folk tale says if you look at the well and see your face you get long life. If not short. Good thing therefore I saw mine :D Well not that it should be hard unless you take a look when it's already quite dark.

And unsurprisingly Chōsokabe burned this temple down as well...Busy temple burner he was!

Frederick Starr(American who lived 157-1933 who spent much time in Japan(including death. Also experienced 1923 Great Kanto earthquake) made note of crutches left at the temple by people who have been miraculously cured. He also notes two square cloths at the wash basin that are held up by four pegs but allowed to sag in the middle. These are for the relief of women who have died in childbirth. Henro pour water on them, thus cleansing the women's souls so that they may attain enlightenment.

In the temple yard there is supposed to be large (about 1.2mx0.6m) stone called the Benkei Stone and the tomb of Emperor Chōkei, a 14th century emperor of the southern court. Legend states that Benkei (a legendary 12th century warrior priest and bodyguard for Yoritomo Yoshitsune) lifted the stone to demonstrate his strength when he and Yoshitsune stopped here in on their way to a battle on Yashima Island.

Wish I had remembered to find that stone! Urgh. Should have read notes while being in temple...

Honzon, Sub-temple's Yakushi Nyorai and Amida Nyorai statues are all credited with Kōbō Daishi. One source says Honzon credited to Gyoki though.

Hahaa! Time to ring a bell. 

 This is Kannon hall. Bit unusual in that it's 8-sided. In Chichibu there was temple that looks quite similar.

And yet another statue of Kobo Daishi.

Wonder what this represents?

Nokyocho had pair of old ladies and story of photos continued. They were looking and commenting photos a lot but didn't take one.

Path to temple 4 however provided bit more interesting as it led first time out of main routes. On route women and men ran past me. Men had backbag and map, women didn't have much. Wonder if they are running the pilgrimage? 

 Another pilgrim walking ahead.

Overhead bridge had these at the bottom.

 This would be very difficult spot if it wasn't for markers. I sure wouldn't have thought the gap in fence be where pilgrim path continues...

Doesn't really look like path you are expected to walk now does it?

But feet sure appreciated sand under them. On route there was bangai temple  called Hokokuji(treasure country temple) where people were giving tea as osettai to pilgrims, tradition started long time ago. This temple is considered by some oku-no-in of temple 3, others disagree. Anyway I gladly took a cup of tea. Again plenty of talking and photos proved again popular(just not taken!).

There was also small friendly dog so time was spent talking and fooling around with the dog. Fuu chan or Kuu chan was the name.

 Too cute! And very friendly dog.

 Oh and guess who else were there? The runners. They ARE running it!

Shortly after this i arrived to Udon restaurant I had earmarked for place to eat. Nothing really on map after this before arriving to lodging I had booked. Another pilgrim also arrived, I think from reverse direction, so we spent time chatting over plans and he gave helpful lodging help. And list of free/cheap lodgings in japanese. Seems he injured his leg 3 years ago in Shosanji and had descented backward. Have heard of that but seems like dangerous! Good for knees supposedly though. Slow as well. He seems to be doing this in bits and pieces.

 Cat of the restaurant was rather lazy fellow but then again was also 18 years old so can't really expect cat to be in prime of his/her life...

I love udon! This was kitsune(fox) udon so deep fried tofu as topping.

 Temple continued through some forrests.

 Surroundings have more and more fields as I progressed further.

Busy intersection! From here I turned right toward temple 4 and would be coming back and head left toward temple 5. Shortly after this I encountered women in totally normal clothings who was also pilgrim and recognized me from the morning train! She wondered how she had overtaken me. Guess tea pause and udon lunch slowed me down enough. She's staying nearby on next day and we'll climb Shosanji on same day so maybe we meet again.

Temple 4, Dainichiji(great sun temple for dainichi nyorai, aka mahavairocana aka reality itself for original honzon but currently Kannon Boddhisatva) didn't provide much surprises though front gate lacked the nio guardians.

First temple that credits itself for Kobo Daishi who carved also the 15cm honzon. Too bad another hidden one. 

Seems during Meiji restoration the 11 faced Kannon statue was taken here from nearby shrine when buddhism and shintoism were separated. Seems shrine was for protection of country so it "outranked" this temple so the Kannon statue became new honzon and the original honzon was moved to side temple. Politics!

This temple has been destroyed and rebuilt repeatedly during past thousand years though has been stable for a long time now.

Good note about meaning of Nokyo's(the stamps we receive).

 Main hall.

 And Daishi hall.

 Red Daishi! Wonder is that paint or feature of whatever material statue is made of?

There was corridor between the two halls with these  33 statues of Senju(1000 armed) Kannon Boddhisatva plus several other Japanese and Chinese historical figures.

Onward to temple 5. I had to backtrack a little and then walk some more.

 Got bit lost when I arrived to the 500 Rakan temple. I did quick tour of the hallways with the rakan statues after buying the ticket from trio of women. Well old women, women in maybe 30's and teenage girl. 3 generations? This is temple dedicated to the historical Buddha and was constructed late 18th century by two brother priests. Temple was destroyed by fire in 1915 when visitor was bit careless. It was later reconstructed in present form including recarving of many lost statues.

Rakan's are Buddha's followers who were said to be closest of archieving enlightement but not quite. It's said that among the 500 statues you should be able to find somebody who looks like person you know.

And unsurprisingly also had Daishi hall.

After that went bit off and came back when I couldn't figure my way. Seems at least one way to get to temple 5 is through this temple arriving to back of Hondo so I basically ignored niomon gate.

 

 So unusually first thing I saw arriving to the temple was the main hall! Temple 5(Jizoji, earthbearer's temple, Jizo boddhisatva as honzon) was founded by Kobo Daishi under order of Emperor Saga(who was supporter of Kobo Daishi if you remember from history of Kobo Daishi I wrote).

The honzon is rather unusual IMO as it's 5.6cm tall of armoured Jizo Bosatsu on a horse. That's rather weird honzon IMO. Later in 13th century priest Jokan carved 88cm tall enmei(long life) Jozatsu statue inside which the original honzon was put into.

 And daishi hall.

Probably not anymore surprise but this temple too was burned by Chōsokabe and his forces...Present temple is smaller than original.

 Carving these must have taken some time...

 As it is I finally saw the niomon gates on my way OUT. And did I see early cherry trees?

With temple 5 done it would be time for first major challenge. Taisanji. First bangai bekkaku temple. 20 extra temples claiming connection to the Kobo Daishi but not important enough to be part of main pilgrimage. Not every pilgrim goes there but i figured only chance is now so let's go.

I however started to get uneasy feeling about many temples in one day. Problem is each temple takes some time(about 30 minutes or so it seems) and indeed more than last year at Chichibu but that's partially explained by having 2 halls(main and daishi) compared to one hall in chichibu. So the more I visit the less I walk in same time. This I need to factor in. There's particularly worrying day in Kochi city with several temples and even Kochi castle and tad over 30km in one day so I started to consider skipping the castle when I get there unless my pace increases.

 I could start to see mountain range among which the temple would be, somewhere.

 So for a while I didn't expect to see other pilgrims. If what I have read is accurate these are pretty desolate roads as far as walking pilgrims go. Chance of other being here at the same time would be pretty slim.

 Quick selfie mirror style :D

Unfortunately I forgot at temple 5 to ask for water and when I realized it there were no vending machines either. Japan? No vending machines? What is going on?

I had bottle of aquarius and half drank tea bottle so had to do with this. Also time was running late as it would be on 450 meter mountain. Let's do my best! I briefly considered knocking doors and asking for water but unsure how that would be taken skipped it. But maybe I should have braved it.

Start was easy enough to follow. When it got to proper climbing there was bit confusion but looping back a bit solved it always.

 Eventually I came to the steep climp that allowed me to cut through zigzagging roads but at the cost of steep climbing. Then when it became less steep there was like tens of meters fall on my left side so had to take care with loose rocks etc.

 Not well visible on photo but this wasn't too gentle rise.

 YEA! I love how things look higher in mountains. Too bad trees were generally blocking the view.

 Around this(or at least in road very much like this) I had just arrived to the road when car came from above. Wow! Human life! As it turns out it was pair of old men(70's I think they said as their age. Generally Japanese btw mention their age and are often asking it as well) driving the pilgrimage on the car. They had stopped just to give me a o-settai. Which was brocade osamefuda! I was stunned(and had to later double check that it WAS brocade and not just particularly colourful red). These are the rarest osamefuda's there are and you can't even buy them normally. Oh no. First you need to do this pilgrimage _100_ times and then with proof of it order from group that's closest thing to official authority of this pilgrimage that's maintaining map, providing tons of information etc.

As 100 times takes ridiculously long time even with car(approximately 1000 days non-stop I think...) costing lots of money this is obviously not something many do which means not many can give these which means getting these isn't easiest thing in the world and I had never hoped to get one.

Getting one on my first day? I would be betting more on winning lottery.

I'm looking pretty much straight down. That's a steep fall. Luckily path itself was more than wide enough to walk safely as long as I'm not daydreaming.

 This tree was actually planted near the niomon gates to pray for marriages according to folk tale so now a days this temple is known as temple to go to for praying good marriage/marriage partner etc. There's even word play as "five yen" in japanese can also mean "good marriage" throwing 5 yen coins into offer box while praying is considered particularly good omen regarding marriage.

Either way bloody big tree!

Finally when I arrived to what looked like where compound would start there were...stairs. Lots of stone stairs. This was challenging temple!

 There would have been alternative road to the main temple but I opted to take these 250 steps or so instead.

 The temple! Bangai bekkaku #1, Taisanji(large/great mountain temple). 1000 armed Kannon Boddhisattva as Honzon. Hello old friend! Last year Chichibu pilgrimage was all about Kannon Boddhisattva so coming to first temple in this pilgrimage with Kannon as Honzon felt familiar. Like meeting with old friend! The Honzon was according to legend given to Kukai by his teacher Huikuo when he was in China. Later he would give that honzon to this temple that also hosts important statues of Fudō Myōō in the hondō and a statue of Namikiri Fudō (Wave Calming Fudō) in a shrine at the peak of the mountain which I didn't have time or strenght to visit.

This temple was founded about 1500 or so years ago ie before even Kukai was born and was known for being important for practicioners of shugendo(japanese mix of buddhism, mountain ascetism and shinto). Temple history claims Kukai did visit the temple and finding it in disrepair had to rebuild it.

 There is a large painting in the temple that depicts a battle between Minamoto Yoshitsune and the Heike. It is said that Yoshitsune visited the temple before the battle at Yashima (in what is now Kagawa Prefecture) in order to pray for victory. Because he eventually did win the battle Taisanji has also come to be known as a wish granting temple. There is a tomb for Yoshitsune's horse in the compound near the pagoda.

Didn't see that(I really should READ what I wrote when I get to temple. What's the point of taking notes in advance if I then don't bother to check them while there? Though was bit pressed for time also).

 Main hall.

 And the Daishi hall.

 There is one other legend associated with this temple and it concerns the temples pagoda. About 400 years ago, the local warlord visited the temple for 21 days in order ot pray for power. As he returned home, he met a monster cow and killed it with one stroke of his sword. A little later, a statue of Jizō was found to have been cut in half and it was believed that this incident was Kannon Bosatsu's way of showing him how strong he had become. To commemorate these events, the warlord carried a nine-story stone pagoda from the bottom of the mountain to the temple where it still stands.

I guess this might be related to this legend?

Another view of the main hall.It started to rain lightly when I arrived to the temple and seems drop of water was on the camera lens.... Finishing at the main hall old lady and probably her two grandsons came to the temple as well. I chatted with the lady for a while and we took photo with all 4 of us. Should have asked one with my camera as well!

At the Nokyocho there were older and younger lady working and again lots and lots of talking over tea and rice cookie they gave as an osettai along with filling pet bottle with water. Thank you! Would have loved to talk more but time was pressing onward and had to push toward Anrakuji to make in time for my temple lodging. I pushed as far as I could taking only little photos. Due to rush though I got lost couple times though realized it quickly or got help from local.

I also got stamp for second bangai temple here as the main hall of 2nd bangai bekkaku temple had burned down only like 2 days before or so causing some disruption to stamp giving there. I asked whether anybody had been hurt(no, good) and what about the honzon(safe as well) so seems it's only main hall that got damaged. That's pity but it can be repaired.

On the way down had slight scare as one step in stairways was semiloose causing me almost trip down. Not a good prospect with heavy backbag... It also started to rain again and quite heavily so packed valuables inside my backbag and took raincoat out.

 Uwaa-! Rain had also stopped so was enjoying views like these. Too bad descent went by so fast. Around this time no less than 2 bus full of pilgrims came up toward the temple. That quiet little temple is going to become lot less quiet soon!

 Shy cat didn't come close no matter how I tried to tempt him/her come to say hi.

16:50, with ten minutes to spare, arrived to the lodging. Phew. Getting taught what to do and how to do with english written texts(priest, junior one probably, continued using english despite me replying in Japanese. His english was simple but understandable. Better than one written guide that actually said basically opposite what it indeded. Luckily priests written explanation was clearer :D

Prewriting needed pieces for evenings otsume, buddhist service, I settled to my room and headed straight to ofuro. Japanese bath are sooooooo great after long walk. Muscles really feel like they are relaxed after that. Too bad they also don't feel like doing much more than laying around after that :D

Next was dinner and it was goooood! I love food they provide at the temples despite no meat. Funnily enough alcohol is available as well as in vending machine in the temple :D

After that it was time for the otsutome and once it was done got to room, drank tea, wrote memos and preparing for next day. Shorter day than this so gives time to rest before Shosanji. That's going to be a challenge.

Otsutome went as follows:

1) Priest went through several suttras and/or mantras.
2) After that even visitors joined in using suttra book going through several including the familiar heart suttra.
3) During either of those two stages priest hit bell and went over names etc like "for X, for Y, for Z". Maybe recently deceased people? Also mentioned the 2011 earthquake's victims.
4) After this priest did sermon talking about importance of middle road, ie don't go to either two extremes like eating ridiculously little or ridiculously much. This is something Buddha taught based on his own experiences in how extremes never gave him real happiness, whether it was extreme lack or extreme possession. Priest told practical example of how in olden days this pilgrimage used to take about 100 days mostly by first walking too fast and then having to rest a lot to recover! Nowadays average is about half that.
5) After this we left the room and went to room with statue of Amida Buddha and left standard name slip there. Then we went to another room that had artificial river. We had prewritten name and date of death of one grandparent(without date if you couldn't remember). I had picked up mother's mother as I could remember date most accurately plus remembered her most as she died last from my grandparents. Dad's dad died like couple decade before I was born, then went mother's father, fathers mother both before I was 10 I think and finally mother's mother when I was already adult. Name slip of her we had tied to tree branch which we then put in plastic cup and let flow in the river. I have to admit I felt tears coming up as this brought memories of her back in my mind. Miss you!
6) After this we proceeded to place where was open fire to which we put wooden piece to which we had prewritten wish that we put into the fire. I put in hope regarding my older little brother.
7) After this we walked around big statue of Amida Buddha chanting Namu Amida Butsu aka glory to Amida Buddha.

And that's it.

Later at the evening I listened how it had started to rain again at the outside. I like listening rain. I had however heard today scary thing. Seems in Shikoku often if march is rainy april is dry and reverse. And this has been dry march it seems...So april could be rainy and I'll be in Kochi then which is particularly infamous for it's rain. Uhhuh.