Day 1. Up to Anrakuji

Previous night had had some trouble sleeping. Guess I felt too excited! Finally I fell asleep and woke middle of the night. Felt like had got long sleep but boy did I feel like brain was still racing. I checked clock and...Half past midnight. So much for long sleep. More like 2 hours! Luckily after that fell quickly asleep again and woke up bright and early I. Iwanted to take 6:11 train to make it to the first temple before it opens to do chants etc and take photos before it opens to get myself on the way quickly. Plan mostly worked. Took more time in the temple than I anticipiated but was still on the move reasonably early. On the train there was another obvious walking henro. We changed greetings. I would see him on temples 2 and 3 but on 3rd he left before me and I didn't see him again. Another memorable person was this little boy who looked like going to kindergarden with his mother dressed up like a little bear :)

Nice weather to start with and I liked early sun light.

As I had already been here yesterday it was dirt easy to find my way so early on I arrived to the temple #1, Ryozenji(Vulture's peak temple). This temple has Shaka Nyorai aka the historical Buddha you might be familiar from history lessons as the main deity of the temple. This temple dates it's history back to 8th century when priest Gyogi under command of Emperor Shomu set this up(at least according to official story. Many historians are however in doubt did Gyogi ever actually VISIT Shikoku let alone set up any temples! Despite this over 30 temples claim him as temple's founder).

Kobo Daishi meanwhile visited this place in 815 and saw vision of Shaka Nyorai(aka the Buddha) preaching lotus suttra on vulture peak(mountain was it in china or india) and to commemorate that carved the honzon and gave the temple new name. This honzon(statue of deity of temple) is nowadays particularly famous among students to pray for academic success. Temple also hosts statues of Dainichi(Mahavairocana, personafication of reality itself) and Amida Nyorai said to be Kobo Daishi's work.

 Already at 7AM there were pilgrims at the main hall. Busy temple this one.

 Statue of Kannon Boddhisatva I remember well from my last trip.

 And this is the Daishi hall(pretty sure on that...) that hosts statue of Kobo Daishi.

 Kobo Daishi himself.

Bell tower. These I loved thorough trip. You can't ring all(to avoid annoying people living nearby) byt every time you could I gleefully rang it. Loved the sound!

This temple has been burned down many times over it's history including what is very repeating story of Chōsokabe Motochika and his armies burning down this in 16th century. He was daimyo(ruler) of Tosa(nowadays Kochi prefecture) who conqquered in 16th century entire Shikoku under his command and in the process burned down most of the temples in this pilgrimage. In addition this temple was burned down in 19th century likely(but not definitely) related to the anti-buddhism movement started by Meiji goverments decision to forcibly separate Shintoism and Buddhism and promote Shintoism as state religion. And current buildings were completed in 1964 with restorations on main hall going on as I visited. I always thought temples were this very old buildings preserved centuries but they are actually rebuilt quite frequently!

Temple 2 Gokurakuji(Pure land temple, or maybe paradise temple) is only few hundred meters to west so no big challenge. On route stopped for breakfast boost on konbini. Arriving to the temple I had some trouble finding where everything is as it was bigger than I expected, This one is dedicated to Amida Nyora who is one of the deities in Buddhism I'm not quite sure what he represents. There's also hall for  Kannon Bodhisattva here.

Early up from temple 1. This is when I really felt I had started the long pilgrimage! Felt excitement and nervousness in equal measure. It really had started! How long my legs would hold? What I would see? Who I would meet? Let's find out!

As with last temple Gyogi is claimed as founder but evidence points more toward Kamakura period(13th century) as real date. Honzon is also credited for Kobo Daishi which is odd if temple is Kamakura period but possible it was of course elsewhere.

 First sight of Niomon gate of the temple(gate is called niomon if there's 2 nio guardians flanking. If not it's sanmon gate).

After long climb of stairs(what else. Very common feature in this pilgrimage) I arrived to the main hall. Too bad honzon(and statues of historical buddha and yakushi nyorai along side honzon) is hidden one so not visible to public viewing. That's unfortunate tradition for quite a few. Some temples at least show like every 5 years or something. Maybe every year if you are lucky.

 Yet another statue of great teacher Kobo Daishi.

 And another bell that I love!

 This one caught my interest. Seems this temple serves as 11th temple of another pilgrimage related to Yakushi nyorai. Could be wrong but that's impression I got from the text. Not that this is that unusual to have temple serve as some temple of many pilgrimages. I think I have read of temple that's part of like half a dozen pilgrimages!

I think these are the Jizo statues that have stories of miraculous healing attached like of a man who had had stomatch surgery who was suffering from fever that did not drop at all. Eventually recommended by another person he chanted mantra's for these statues upon which fever went away like a reclining tide.

Another legend says that long time ago honzon let out bright light that disrupted local fishermen. They solved it by building artificial hill between bay and the hall thus blocking light. Temple's mountain name(sun light mountain) originates from this legend.

 Often enough temples have beautiful and relaxing garden!

This is 1000 year old cedar tree named long life cedar tree. It's said to be planted by Kobo Daishi and is said that if you touch it you are granted long life. Except it's now prohibited to touch(probably to ensure it doesn't get damaged by over eager pilgrims) and instead there's connecting robe you are supposed to touch with supposedly feeling energy from it.

Long life or not I know I prefer touch of wood over that of a robe.

Tree is also famous for supposedly easing child births of all things. There's legend of women who, after miscarrying several children, went off in pilgrimage in reverse order to find Kobo Daishi(who is believed to still walk this pilgrimage in clockwise order) for help on her current pregnancy. She got her labour pains just as she arrived here and credited Kobo Daishi for helping her to give birth to healthy child.

As a result there are numerous Jizo statues donated by women after births with names of child seen around.

Many books state that, throughout the pilgrimage, the temples with the newest buildings and the most opulent displays are inevitably those dedicated to childbirth.

And this temple was also burned by the Chōsokabe's forces...

When I went to nokyocho for my stamp the ladies there happy to look at the photos of finland I had with me but what would become repeating pattern refused to take one. I have 4 copies of each and can make more! Taking one makes my bag lighter :) Well just looking is fine and provides fine source for conversations. But maybe I should ditch idea of giving photos and save some weight if nobody takes one! 10 past 8 I left temple 2 and headed toward next temple.

Temple 3 was also nearby so didn't provide much more than street walking. However it did pass through some narrower lanes and past one graveyard so I was out of main streets for a while.

 These kind of markers were...well pretty much everywhere so finding temples was rarely issue. If I didn't spot one of these soon could generally be sure I got lost so just backtrack a bit! Or look for map for way to rejoin correct path.

And arrival to temple #3, Konsenji(golden spring temple. Spring as in water spring, not season). This one is another temple for Shaka Nyorai(historical buddha) and is again said to be set by Gyogi by order of Emperor Shomu. Original name was actually golden light temple but after Kobo Daishi dug a well here that he named golden well when he saw joy of locals who by then were suffering from drought. He also renamed the temple.

Folk tale says if you look at the well and see your face you get long life. If not short. Good thing therefore I saw mine :D Well not that it should be hard unless you take a look when it's already quite dark.

And unsurprisingly Chōsokabe burned this temple down as well...Busy temple burner he was!

Frederick Starr(American who lived 157-1933 who spent much time in Japan(including death. Also experienced 1923 Great Kanto earthquake) made note of crutches left at the temple by people who have been miraculously cured. He also notes two square cloths at the wash basin that are held up by four pegs but allowed to sag in the middle. These are for the relief of women who have died in childbirth. Henro pour water on them, thus cleansing the women's souls so that they may attain enlightenment.

In the temple yard there is supposed to be large (about 1.2mx0.6m) stone called the Benkei Stone and the tomb of Emperor Chōkei, a 14th century emperor of the southern court. Legend states that Benkei (a legendary 12th century warrior priest and bodyguard for Yoritomo Yoshitsune) lifted the stone to demonstrate his strength when he and Yoshitsune stopped here in on their way to a battle on Yashima Island.

Wish I had remembered to find that stone! Urgh. Should have read notes while being in temple...

Honzon, Sub-temple's Yakushi Nyorai and Amida Nyorai statues are all credited with Kōbō Daishi. One source says Honzon credited to Gyoki though.

Hahaa! Time to ring a bell. 

 This is Kannon hall. Bit unusual in that it's 8-sided. In Chichibu there was temple that looks quite similar.

And yet another statue of Kobo Daishi.

Wonder what this represents?

Nokyocho had pair of old ladies and story of photos continued. They were looking and commenting photos a lot but didn't take one.

Path to temple 4 however provided bit more interesting as it led first time out of main routes. On route women and men ran past me. Men had backbag and map, women didn't have much. Wonder if they are running the pilgrimage? 

 Another pilgrim walking ahead.

Overhead bridge had these at the bottom.

 This would be very difficult spot if it wasn't for markers. I sure wouldn't have thought the gap in fence be where pilgrim path continues...

Doesn't really look like path you are expected to walk now does it?

But feet sure appreciated sand under them. On route there was bangai temple  called Hokokuji(treasure country temple) where people were giving tea as osettai to pilgrims, tradition started long time ago. This temple is considered by some oku-no-in of temple 3, others disagree. Anyway I gladly took a cup of tea. Again plenty of talking and photos proved again popular(just not taken!).

There was also small friendly dog so time was spent talking and fooling around with the dog. Fuu chan or Kuu chan was the name.

 Too cute! And very friendly dog.

 Oh and guess who else were there? The runners. They ARE running it!

Shortly after this i arrived to Udon restaurant I had earmarked for place to eat. Nothing really on map after this before arriving to lodging I had booked. Another pilgrim also arrived, I think from reverse direction, so we spent time chatting over plans and he gave helpful lodging help. And list of free/cheap lodgings in japanese. Seems he injured his leg 3 years ago in Shosanji and had descented backward. Have heard of that but seems like dangerous! Good for knees supposedly though. Slow as well. He seems to be doing this in bits and pieces.

 Cat of the restaurant was rather lazy fellow but then again was also 18 years old so can't really expect cat to be in prime of his/her life...

I love udon! This was kitsune(fox) udon so deep fried tofu as topping.

 Temple continued through some forrests.

 Surroundings have more and more fields as I progressed further.

Busy intersection! From here I turned right toward temple 4 and would be coming back and head left toward temple 5. Shortly after this I encountered women in totally normal clothings who was also pilgrim and recognized me from the morning train! She wondered how she had overtaken me. Guess tea pause and udon lunch slowed me down enough. She's staying nearby on next day and we'll climb Shosanji on same day so maybe we meet again.

Temple 4, Dainichiji(great sun temple for dainichi nyorai, aka mahavairocana aka reality itself for original honzon but currently Kannon Boddhisatva) didn't provide much surprises though front gate lacked the nio guardians.

First temple that credits itself for Kobo Daishi who carved also the 15cm honzon. Too bad another hidden one. 

Seems during Meiji restoration the 11 faced Kannon statue was taken here from nearby shrine when buddhism and shintoism were separated. Seems shrine was for protection of country so it "outranked" this temple so the Kannon statue became new honzon and the original honzon was moved to side temple. Politics!

This temple has been destroyed and rebuilt repeatedly during past thousand years though has been stable for a long time now.

Good note about meaning of Nokyo's(the stamps we receive).

 Main hall.

 And Daishi hall.

 Red Daishi! Wonder is that paint or feature of whatever material statue is made of?

There was corridor between the two halls with these  33 statues of Senju(1000 armed) Kannon Boddhisatva plus several other Japanese and Chinese historical figures.

Onward to temple 5. I had to backtrack a little and then walk some more.

 Got bit lost when I arrived to the 500 Rakan temple. I did quick tour of the hallways with the rakan statues after buying the ticket from trio of women. Well old women, women in maybe 30's and teenage girl. 3 generations? This is temple dedicated to the historical Buddha and was constructed late 18th century by two brother priests. Temple was destroyed by fire in 1915 when visitor was bit careless. It was later reconstructed in present form including recarving of many lost statues.

Rakan's are Buddha's followers who were said to be closest of archieving enlightement but not quite. It's said that among the 500 statues you should be able to find somebody who looks like person you know.

And unsurprisingly also had Daishi hall.

After that went bit off and came back when I couldn't figure my way. Seems at least one way to get to temple 5 is through this temple arriving to back of Hondo so I basically ignored niomon gate.

 

 So unusually first thing I saw arriving to the temple was the main hall! Temple 5(Jizoji, earthbearer's temple, Jizo boddhisatva as honzon) was founded by Kobo Daishi under order of Emperor Saga(who was supporter of Kobo Daishi if you remember from history of Kobo Daishi I wrote).

The honzon is rather unusual IMO as it's 5.6cm tall of armoured Jizo Bosatsu on a horse. That's rather weird honzon IMO. Later in 13th century priest Jokan carved 88cm tall enmei(long life) Jozatsu statue inside which the original honzon was put into.

 And daishi hall.

Probably not anymore surprise but this temple too was burned by Chōsokabe and his forces...Present temple is smaller than original.

 Carving these must have taken some time...

 As it is I finally saw the niomon gates on my way OUT. And did I see early cherry trees?

With temple 5 done it would be time for first major challenge. Taisanji. First bangai bekkaku temple. 20 extra temples claiming connection to the Kobo Daishi but not important enough to be part of main pilgrimage. Not every pilgrim goes there but i figured only chance is now so let's go.

I however started to get uneasy feeling about many temples in one day. Problem is each temple takes some time(about 30 minutes or so it seems) and indeed more than last year at Chichibu but that's partially explained by having 2 halls(main and daishi) compared to one hall in chichibu. So the more I visit the less I walk in same time. This I need to factor in. There's particularly worrying day in Kochi city with several temples and even Kochi castle and tad over 30km in one day so I started to consider skipping the castle when I get there unless my pace increases.

 I could start to see mountain range among which the temple would be, somewhere.

 So for a while I didn't expect to see other pilgrims. If what I have read is accurate these are pretty desolate roads as far as walking pilgrims go. Chance of other being here at the same time would be pretty slim.

 Quick selfie mirror style :D

Unfortunately I forgot at temple 5 to ask for water and when I realized it there were no vending machines either. Japan? No vending machines? What is going on?

I had bottle of aquarius and half drank tea bottle so had to do with this. Also time was running late as it would be on 450 meter mountain. Let's do my best! I briefly considered knocking doors and asking for water but unsure how that would be taken skipped it. But maybe I should have braved it.

Start was easy enough to follow. When it got to proper climbing there was bit confusion but looping back a bit solved it always.

 Eventually I came to the steep climp that allowed me to cut through zigzagging roads but at the cost of steep climbing. Then when it became less steep there was like tens of meters fall on my left side so had to take care with loose rocks etc.

 Not well visible on photo but this wasn't too gentle rise.

 YEA! I love how things look higher in mountains. Too bad trees were generally blocking the view.

 Around this(or at least in road very much like this) I had just arrived to the road when car came from above. Wow! Human life! As it turns out it was pair of old men(70's I think they said as their age. Generally Japanese btw mention their age and are often asking it as well) driving the pilgrimage on the car. They had stopped just to give me a o-settai. Which was brocade osamefuda! I was stunned(and had to later double check that it WAS brocade and not just particularly colourful red). These are the rarest osamefuda's there are and you can't even buy them normally. Oh no. First you need to do this pilgrimage _100_ times and then with proof of it order from group that's closest thing to official authority of this pilgrimage that's maintaining map, providing tons of information etc.

As 100 times takes ridiculously long time even with car(approximately 1000 days non-stop I think...) costing lots of money this is obviously not something many do which means not many can give these which means getting these isn't easiest thing in the world and I had never hoped to get one.

Getting one on my first day? I would be betting more on winning lottery.

I'm looking pretty much straight down. That's a steep fall. Luckily path itself was more than wide enough to walk safely as long as I'm not daydreaming.

 This tree was actually planted near the niomon gates to pray for marriages according to folk tale so now a days this temple is known as temple to go to for praying good marriage/marriage partner etc. There's even word play as "five yen" in japanese can also mean "good marriage" throwing 5 yen coins into offer box while praying is considered particularly good omen regarding marriage.

Either way bloody big tree!

Finally when I arrived to what looked like where compound would start there were...stairs. Lots of stone stairs. This was challenging temple!

 There would have been alternative road to the main temple but I opted to take these 250 steps or so instead.

 The temple! Bangai bekkaku #1, Taisanji(large/great mountain temple). 1000 armed Kannon Boddhisattva as Honzon. Hello old friend! Last year Chichibu pilgrimage was all about Kannon Boddhisattva so coming to first temple in this pilgrimage with Kannon as Honzon felt familiar. Like meeting with old friend! The Honzon was according to legend given to Kukai by his teacher Huikuo when he was in China. Later he would give that honzon to this temple that also hosts important statues of Fudō Myōō in the hondō and a statue of Namikiri Fudō (Wave Calming Fudō) in a shrine at the peak of the mountain which I didn't have time or strenght to visit.

This temple was founded about 1500 or so years ago ie before even Kukai was born and was known for being important for practicioners of shugendo(japanese mix of buddhism, mountain ascetism and shinto). Temple history claims Kukai did visit the temple and finding it in disrepair had to rebuild it.

 There is a large painting in the temple that depicts a battle between Minamoto Yoshitsune and the Heike. It is said that Yoshitsune visited the temple before the battle at Yashima (in what is now Kagawa Prefecture) in order to pray for victory. Because he eventually did win the battle Taisanji has also come to be known as a wish granting temple. There is a tomb for Yoshitsune's horse in the compound near the pagoda.

Didn't see that(I really should READ what I wrote when I get to temple. What's the point of taking notes in advance if I then don't bother to check them while there? Though was bit pressed for time also).

 Main hall.

 And the Daishi hall.

 There is one other legend associated with this temple and it concerns the temples pagoda. About 400 years ago, the local warlord visited the temple for 21 days in order ot pray for power. As he returned home, he met a monster cow and killed it with one stroke of his sword. A little later, a statue of Jizō was found to have been cut in half and it was believed that this incident was Kannon Bosatsu's way of showing him how strong he had become. To commemorate these events, the warlord carried a nine-story stone pagoda from the bottom of the mountain to the temple where it still stands.

I guess this might be related to this legend?

Another view of the main hall.It started to rain lightly when I arrived to the temple and seems drop of water was on the camera lens.... Finishing at the main hall old lady and probably her two grandsons came to the temple as well. I chatted with the lady for a while and we took photo with all 4 of us. Should have asked one with my camera as well!

At the Nokyocho there were older and younger lady working and again lots and lots of talking over tea and rice cookie they gave as an osettai along with filling pet bottle with water. Thank you! Would have loved to talk more but time was pressing onward and had to push toward Anrakuji to make in time for my temple lodging. I pushed as far as I could taking only little photos. Due to rush though I got lost couple times though realized it quickly or got help from local.

I also got stamp for second bangai temple here as the main hall of 2nd bangai bekkaku temple had burned down only like 2 days before or so causing some disruption to stamp giving there. I asked whether anybody had been hurt(no, good) and what about the honzon(safe as well) so seems it's only main hall that got damaged. That's pity but it can be repaired.

On the way down had slight scare as one step in stairways was semiloose causing me almost trip down. Not a good prospect with heavy backbag... It also started to rain again and quite heavily so packed valuables inside my backbag and took raincoat out.

 Uwaa-! Rain had also stopped so was enjoying views like these. Too bad descent went by so fast. Around this time no less than 2 bus full of pilgrims came up toward the temple. That quiet little temple is going to become lot less quiet soon!

 Shy cat didn't come close no matter how I tried to tempt him/her come to say hi.

16:50, with ten minutes to spare, arrived to the lodging. Phew. Getting taught what to do and how to do with english written texts(priest, junior one probably, continued using english despite me replying in Japanese. His english was simple but understandable. Better than one written guide that actually said basically opposite what it indeded. Luckily priests written explanation was clearer :D

Prewriting needed pieces for evenings otsume, buddhist service, I settled to my room and headed straight to ofuro. Japanese bath are sooooooo great after long walk. Muscles really feel like they are relaxed after that. Too bad they also don't feel like doing much more than laying around after that :D

Next was dinner and it was goooood! I love food they provide at the temples despite no meat. Funnily enough alcohol is available as well as in vending machine in the temple :D

After that it was time for the otsutome and once it was done got to room, drank tea, wrote memos and preparing for next day. Shorter day than this so gives time to rest before Shosanji. That's going to be a challenge.

Otsutome went as follows:

1) Priest went through several suttras and/or mantras.
2) After that even visitors joined in using suttra book going through several including the familiar heart suttra.
3) During either of those two stages priest hit bell and went over names etc like "for X, for Y, for Z". Maybe recently deceased people? Also mentioned the 2011 earthquake's victims.
4) After this priest did sermon talking about importance of middle road, ie don't go to either two extremes like eating ridiculously little or ridiculously much. This is something Buddha taught based on his own experiences in how extremes never gave him real happiness, whether it was extreme lack or extreme possession. Priest told practical example of how in olden days this pilgrimage used to take about 100 days mostly by first walking too fast and then having to rest a lot to recover! Nowadays average is about half that.
5) After this we left the room and went to room with statue of Amida Buddha and left standard name slip there. Then we went to another room that had artificial river. We had prewritten name and date of death of one grandparent(without date if you couldn't remember). I had picked up mother's mother as I could remember date most accurately plus remembered her most as she died last from my grandparents. Dad's dad died like couple decade before I was born, then went mother's father, fathers mother both before I was 10 I think and finally mother's mother when I was already adult. Name slip of her we had tied to tree branch which we then put in plastic cup and let flow in the river. I have to admit I felt tears coming up as this brought memories of her back in my mind. Miss you!
6) After this we proceeded to place where was open fire to which we put wooden piece to which we had prewritten wish that we put into the fire. I put in hope regarding my older little brother.
7) After this we walked around big statue of Amida Buddha chanting Namu Amida Butsu aka glory to Amida Buddha.

And that's it.

Later at the evening I listened how it had started to rain again at the outside. I like listening rain. I had however heard today scary thing. Seems in Shikoku often if march is rainy april is dry and reverse. And this has been dry march it seems...So april could be rainy and I'll be in Kochi then which is particularly infamous for it's rain. Uhhuh.

Day 0. From Finland to Tokushima and first 2 bangai temples

Finally the long awaited trip began, Though departure was still only arond one PM as plane would leave at half past 5 Morning was spent buying new coat and with nieces who wouldn't see me for few weeks except by skype.

Flight itself was uneventful except for unexpected meeting with another person from my home town who knows my mother and recognized me. It's a small world! Too bad I didn't recognize her.'

During fligjht I read Novel called Another, watched anime "Your name" that has become quite famous(especially in Asia but even in America critics have been praising it) and slept. Oh and ate the 2 infliight meals. As usual taste is good but sure won't gain weight eating these!

 The lunch. I had pre-requested asian style meal out of curiosity but having tried and looked at others think I will skip pre-requests for my flights. Regular meals looked tastier!

Arriving to Kansai airport first I needed to find post office to pick rented sim card and send stuff I don' need before the end of holiday to ny friend who agreed to keep them. Many thanks! After this I went and secured myseff bus ticket to Tokushima and then headed to buy lighter, pen and something to eat Before passing out of hunger!

First time I came to Japan by kansai airport so scenery would have been new to me...But I passed out almost immediately. Woke couple of times and when I saw the mountains of shikoku I could feel my heart sing. Soon I would be walking among those.

Lousy photo but bus isn't best place to take photos in...

Arriving to Tokushima I would have loved to go to restaurant but still no time for it. First  I needed to check in to hotel(just to make sure they don't think I wont be coming even if return is late) and then I needed to head to the first temple to buy the pilgrim stuff. And if I don't make it to next train shop might close before I get all done.

Almost 2 years since I had been in Tokushima and it wasn't even that long visit but I could remember this view so well. Felt like it was only yesterday. Maybe it's because I had been waiting for this trip so long?


So I hopped to the train and went to the first temple. Very easy to find. I got my shoppings done though white shirt there wasn't suitable size, I had to settle for smaller hat(bigger one interfered with the backbag) and forgot to buy wagesa(cloth you put over your neck). Last one I can get next day, no can do with the hat and white shirt I try again on shop near temple 10.

Wasn't most auspicious starts weather wise as there was some rain though luckily it stopped off soon enough.

 The locals have made getting into temples very easy. Indeed the map book itself is pretty much POINTLESS when it comes to getting from one temple to another. What you really need it is for more practical things. Figuring out suitable places to sleep every day, shops & restaurants(though it doesn't have all of them) etc. But for getting from temple to temple...Just follow the sights! Generally if I didn't see within 5 minutes another I was pretty sure to be lost or walking in a road that's like 10km+ straight so no need for more signs. Which often there was anyway just to reinforce that yes you are on the same road and only 47km left to go to the next temple! ;)

Aaaand it's first sight of temple #1 Ryozenji. Well I had visited this place on 2015 summer but that time I had come by car so hadn't seen the gate from this angle on my own. Have seen this from plenty of videos and photos though.

Temple had this mannequin showing traditional(well except for shoes....) outfit. I would be taking the "shirt"(robe?)(hakui in japanese), wagesa(the orange cloth over shoulder representing monks stole), hat plus zudabukuro(white small shoulder bag) and kongotsue(wooden staff representing Kobo Daishi).

With this I went to look around temple 1. No intention of doing here anything yet starting tomorrow but just getting feel of the place(and figuring out where is what to make first temple easier to reduce nervousness!). Then I would head east for the Juurinji and Toorinji. If I had stayed in minshuku I wouldn't make there and back in time but as I had ended up in business hotel no such issues. Good warmup practice.

And here I got taste of Shikoku hospitality toward pilgrims. I had had my hat and staff barely 15 minutes before getting TWO osettai. First leaving temple 1 and then on konbini store when I dropped in to buy some food.

 I didn't know it yet but those white gloves would actually become very usefull...

Tasty!

Osettai is basically gift. It's ages old tradition here originating from the early days of pilgrimage. Originally it was reserved for the priests walking but as common people started to walk it in numbers it was widened to include them. People do this to a) honour the Kobo Daishi(who is said to walk along every pilgrim) and to share the pilgrim a bit when they aren't able to do it themselves. By helping a pilgrim they are doing small bit of it and thus get small slice of good karma themselves.

Osettai can range from cash to food to drinks to small items and offers to drive you further toward next temple. Or even to the next temple. Also can be free lodging etc. As a general rule of thumb you should never ever refuse them as doing so would basically deny them their form of buddhist service(and karma points :D). Exception is car drives if you are walking. That can be rejected without offending but other than that? Don't try and if you try prepare for a fight as they won't be refused easily(or so I have heard)

Leaving temple 1 I got can of juice, small mandarin like fruit(though meat was darker orange) and white cotton gloves. Oh and little chocolate. At the konbini bigger fruit more like orange.

Now I'm obviously quite grateful but dear if I keep getting these fruits at this rate either I'm eating them at very fast rate or my already oversized backbag is full of fruits! Well hopefully pace slows down a bit. Would feel bit embarrassed to be handed down free gifts all the time.

Apart from the osettais trip to Juurinji was fairly uneventful and tempe itself was also small and quiet. And closed as I arrived around 5PM.

 Jurinji temple. Wouldn't neccessarily even have realized it was temple if I hadn't been specifically searching for a temple around here!

Temple had these statues of various Buddhist deities like Amida Nyorai, Maha-Vairocana(who basically is reality itself), Kannon Boddhisatva etc.

 Pretty sure this is Kobo Daishi.

 Yakushi Nyorai said to help with illness, diseases etc. Hopefully he'll help with future leg pains! I'm sure my legs are going to be painfull sooner or later.

 The Mahavairocana.

Jurinji has Jizo Bosatsu as the main deity. Protector of children and travellers so unsurprisingly very popular fellow in this travel full of travellers in a long travel! Legend says Kobo Daishi carved the statue while he was staying here and explained the law of Buddha here making this temple called as "the place of discussion".

Of course how truthful that story is is another question. Many legends surrounding Kobo Daishi are just legends. There's pretty much no way he COULD have done all he is credited as doing. Human life is too short for that especially when he lived in an age when simply getting from place to place took long time(something I would learn to appreciate during this trip...).

Moving on I kept eye for restaurant but didn't spot one. This was quite remote area! People often have image of crowded cities when they think of Japan but Shikoku is very different. But eventually I arrived to Tourinji which was much bigger temple. This is the Oku-no-in for temple #1.

 Shikoku is also land of agriculture and oranges and so forth are very popular here with more varietys than I know!

 Empty road with fields along. This is view I would be seeing a lot no doubt. And not a human in sight. After leaving konbini I actually spent entire 2 hour or so walk alone without seeing another human....

Shrine short of Torinji. Considered visiting it but I figured I'm going to be walking more than fair share soon enough anyway and I wanted to get back fairly early so skipped it.

 Main hall of the Torinji. This temple is dedicated for the healer Yakushi Nyorai. This temple was first founded by Gyogi Bosatsu(Japanese priest who was active about century before Kukai). Later Kobo Daishi stayed and prayed here to help local farmers from natural disasters and diseases. He also encouraged farmers by tilling the ground and planting seeds.

Seems there are national treasures here including beads, scarlet vest and iron bowl that you could see if you ask but as it is was I was WAY past opening times so trying would just be causing trouble with very slim chances of getting to see them(about only thing that MIGHT make them relent is japanese politeness and maybe getting some extra credit for being rare foreigner. But that could also work AGAINST me so not quaranteed). So I skipped it.

Would have been nice but I generally try to avoid causing trouble especially as it might shed bad light on pilgrims as a whole and foreign ones in particular(there's been less well behaving, both native and foreigners, which has resulted in previously free places to sleep being closed and especially in related to foreigners some lodgings are bit wary of taking in foreigners as there's been those who have booked and never shown up which is generally big problem for many small scale lodgings. Especially if you have requested meal which is often prepared in advance so even if they didn't have to sell "no place" for other pilgrim they have lost money in food they prepared for nothing) so I had vowed to make sure I cause least amount of trouble I can. I'm sure there would be SOME extra tension due to cultural differences in behaviour but knocking door well past closing time requesting special permission to see treasures is "bit" more than I would be willing to accept!

 Not sure is this Yakushi Nyorai or Kannon Boddhisatva. Could be either as far as I know. I'm not THAT well versed on who is who!

 Now this scary face I know. It's the immovable king fudo myo-oo. More about him later when I get to temples where he is main deity.

Kobo Daishi. Since pilgrimage is on his foot steps no surprise his statues are numerous. And btw that hat makes photographing these statues HARD! If you have enough lightning to light the face everything else is overexposed...

There was children playground items on the temple ground which reminded me that in olden days temples served often as communal areas and children playground. Wonder if that still continues?

Return trip I could have went to closer train station but decided to go back to Bando station to get some more walking practice. On route I saw incredible sunset over mountains. For a while pondered whether to dig camera out of backbag or not but in the end dug it. Hopefully photo succeeded decently though don't think it makes justice for it.

 Looking pretty good already...

But then I got this beautifull red sky.

I got to the station around 19:45 when it was already pitch black. Then just back to hotel before going to eat some dinner(meat donburi) and some breakfast for tomorrow. Since I need to catch train I need to be on the move early. No time for breakfast hunt on the morning.

Rest of evening went preparing for tomorrow when pilgrimage would properly begin. Backbag is a worry though. It's 11kg before food and water. Way more than I expected. Not sure why so heavy. Wasn't that heavy in Xhichibu. There's camera and warm clothes but no PC which alone is twice the cameras weight. Weird.

Hopefully won't stop me but might buy lighter camera for next year.

 These are called osamefuda's. Basically name slips. You leave 1 for main hall and 1 for daishi hall(wonder what temples do with these? Just burn? Count and burn? Something else?). Also if you are given osettai tradition calls to give one back and these are said to bring good luck. Also pilgrims tend to give these to each other as sort of name slips. Well in practice I found during day only happened if we actually walked for a while together. Relief in a sense as due to all I met writing all would take some time! Also sometimes osettai givers simply left before I could even get the slips up. For a while I would spend some time each night writing slips with only date left unfinished to save up time mid-walk...

The room at Hotel Clement in Tokushima. Location was pretty darn sweet right next to the station with konbinis and restaurants nearby and fairly cheap. Not spectacular room though that chair was fairly comfortable.

View from the window of hotel.

5th summary. And so it ended.

Well as title already reveals I had to stop the pilgrimage tad sooner than I expected(about week prematuredly). Leg issues which I get back later. Still. After last summary I had arrived to temple 26 after arriving to Cape Muroto.

It was heavily raining as I left the temple early prepared for a very long day under steady rain that occasionally paused for few minutes before coming back heavily. I basically just walked alone through couple small villages. After like 10km or so there was pilgrim trail through mountain. I considered skipping it and using the car route which might be tad longer but probably easier than climbing in rain but...I love mountains so I went up. Meeting one local person on route I eventually got to the other side but boy mountain trail with wet leaves is tricky to descent.

Around 11AM serious rain started making me think boat might soon be needed to go forward! I have never walked in rain like this. And trucks were splashing water on me all the time. Boy was I feeling miserable but at least had good motivator to keep me moving fast so I got to the lodging around 1PM. Leaving luggage as agreed I headed to the temple 27 that was on top of 410m or so climb with some stone stairs at the end! I was soo exhausted there. Getting to the lodging I was dead tired. Well 34km, that mountain plus rain so no surprises...

Next day. Started bit misty but much to my surprise it was mostly sunshine today. First in Kochi! I entered Aki town and zagging along their small streets full of old stores I got into walker/biker specific road. Which seemed to last forever. Well more like 5km when I had ran out of drinks and had to exit back to highway to get something to drink. At Akano rest station I ran into couple Australian tourists who were curious about this pilgrimage.

Eventually got into lodging where I first met this middle aged female pilgrim I would meet later again. I had amazing view to look at during meal which made the place well worth it.

Monday. Today was supposed to be short day with just 28km. At the start it didn't rain which was nice but eventually it started to rain. It was about 10km walk to the Dainichiji temple that I had some trouble locating. Trees in the temple compound were particulary nice.

But getting here I started to think my plan for today might be tad...Bad. I would get very short day but tomorrow would be very long one. So I decided to walk to the next temple first before going to lodging. Adds bit more walking overall but cuts down tomorrows job.

Walking through another long road through rice fields that seemed to go forever I eventually came to konbini where I stopped for a break. While eating I looked at the map noticing there was onsen on fairly convenient location. I decided that aftet temple and before going to lodging I would take the onsen! So I walked to the temple(quite nice) and headed to the onsen which felt just great. Only problem was I still had to walk to the lodging in rain! Was tempted to call taxi but resisted.

On route to the lodging I ran into the old lady from yesterday much to mutual joy and surprise. Always nice to meet familiar faces again!

Lodging was standard business hotel so nothing special.

Next day started rainy but eventually cleared up and wouldn't see rain anymore during this walk. It was beautifull day to walk though for some reason my pace was pretty bad. Going to temple 30 I met there the lady again(yey!) before heading toward next temple during which I met older men whom I would walk quite a bit today. We separated for a while during my food break but eventually at the temple 31 we met again.

Before leaving the temple I had spotted mother and her young, like maybe 4 or 5 year old, daughter. I had enjoyed watching the kid enjoy herself so on a whim prepared nameslip paper and gave it to her(much to kids surprisement). Kid seemed to like it though as she excitedly called out for her mother telling her to look what she got. Nice!

Leaving temple I joined up with the men I had met with whom I walked most of the way to the temple 32 before I had to stop in for a break exhausted by the pace. After lunch break at restaurant I got to temple 32 meeting couple americans on route. Another mountain temple with amazing views from the top.

Getting to the lodging took a while as it was some 6km away and included one of the scariest bridges I have had to cross ever. Very narrow walker path and when car came from behind the air jolted me around. And took like 9 minutes just to get to the top...

But the lodging was excelent and ridiculously cheap for the quality. Great view especially in the bath!

Wednesday and beginning of the end! Mistakes in calculation, getting lost and generally lodging locations being less than ideal and after doing temples 33 and 34 in quick order I realized this would be longer than expected with tight schedule. I spent time going to temple 35 like I was racing. Legs weren't enjoying the pace have to say.

Getting to the temple, on top of mountain again, I had some rest there before heading back(possibly seeing the poisonous mamushi. At least it was very long snake so not going to offer being bitten to see if it was poisonous!). I moved fast realizing I WAS going to be tight to get to 5PM which I usually try to arrive as latest(though had I known this was not minshuku but proper onsen/restaurant/lodging I might have felt less need to rush). I skipped mountain climb as I didn't feel I would be able to climb it and get to the lodging and didn't want to risk collapsing on mountain.

Crossing another long bridge I eventually got to the lodging having walked 36.5km. Longest so far. And legs were soooo toasted. Also skin at ankles were broken at places so at night had hard time sleeping if I didn't sleep on my left side protecting right ankle from touching anything.

Next morning felt okay except for the ankle section that didn't like touch of shoes but went to temple 36 and it's oku-no-in(3rd temple hall, often in remote place, where in olden days priests practiced meditation etc). During trip to there I had first hint I was in trouble as climbing mountain road was hard. And then walking toward next town I got into serious trouble as right ankle started to refuse holding up weight.

I was in trouble and after about 8km walking I raised white flag and called taxi. Didn't get reply. This was bad so resorted to hitchiking! After couple attempts got a drive from living angel to the Susaki station.

From there I took the small walk to the bekkaku temple that had been goal and then, since train would have required like 2 hour wait, took about 3km walk to the lodging.

And with this this years pilgrimage is done. Wont try to continue with these feet anymore. Next year with lighter pack and new type of shoes I continue with slower pace.

Next? Plan is quick drop to Kochi castle, then to Tokushima for 2 nights, Okayama, Osaka, maybe Chichibu again and then to Tokyo.

Fourth summary. I have entered the Kochi prefecture. And it's been rainy!

So last I wrote I was in lodging next to a beach. Still in Tokushima prefecture but approaching the Kochi prefecture that is infamously rough part of the pilgrimage with rain(don't think there's been pilgrin who HASN'T experienced rain here).

But before that I still had one more temple and thats the fourth bangai bekkaku temple in Tokushima to take care of. It was fairly short trip from the lodging so it was done fairly quickly. From here it would be 55 kilometers with NO temples to visit. Not much to do except put some feet ahead of other and walk.

I had fairly short bout 20km or so, day planned before I would reach last lodging I could realistically reach in this day. Next one would be way too far. So I waked until I reached town where I was supposed to take the western route out of 2 in the map. However I somehow managed to steer too much north so got lost..Trust me to get lost in almost straight road. Lol! Luckily it was no big detour in the middle of nowhere but have to wonder am I first modern pilgrim to have walked that road? Not part you would expect to get lost and there's nothing there for pilgrim to go deliberately so could be...

Getting back to route I went to konbini store for breakfest filling and went to the rest hut nearby to eat them. Seems this was first of these free henro huts built. There was also some fruit/something juice for free that I drank of. Pretty good!

I walked some more before entering the second town on path that had last konbini for a while so bought some serious food supplies(too much in hindsight) and called today's lodging to confirm I am coming(she had been bit worried about that since I didn't have a phone number to call to).

Then I reached the tunnel that marks the border between Tokushima and Kochi prefecture. I enter in while in Tokushima, exited in Kochi. I have come Kochi! Show me what you have got!

Well today was only short stint so nothing too spectacular happened yet. I checked in to one of the most ancient and run down looking lodgings yet but hostess was friendly enough when we got to talking, meals were good and futon good enough to sleep so no major complains. She even prepared 2 rice balls and gave bottle of tea as o-settai. Thank you! For 5500 yen quite cheap for all this. Old building or not! However later heard less than favourable reviews of that place. Well does look kinda rough. But dunno. I didn't have major problem with it. Wouldn't be high on my lodging list on this trip but not bad enough I wouldn't be willing to book there again if I came here again.

11th day was going to be simple walk along sea coast. Literally. Only couple unnumbered bangai spots and one konbini stop but apart from that it was all walking along highway listening and looking at the waves hitting the beach.

Day I had been dreading a bit. But it was actually bit better than I had feared so all good in the end.

Original plan had been to go for tad short of temple 24 but due to leg issues had booked lodging bit earlier and maybe lucky I did. This place was very nice(got good vibe just from outside!) with good meals(and 11th differet type of dinner in a row) and quite an interesting Jean Sibelius fan as a fellow pilgrim. He was also very good walker(he stayed last night in the same beach side place I had stayed in and walked 46km in a day!) and very, very, VERY talkative. I'm not usually the quiet one around table but this time I had hard time putting anythig in as he kept talking and talking and talking! As he kept no barrels I had to concetrate fully to keep up but did get pretty much everything he said. From a lot of things. Damn that guy talked a lot!

Not often I get beaten in talking but thanks for good listening practice!

Did you know it was mountain sakura all the old poems etc were made? I didn't but that was tidbit he told and host agreed. Interesting. Those were the original cherry trees it seems. They were later imported out into cities etc out of the mountains.

So far apart from short stint of rain it hadn't been that bad in Kochi. However when I woke up it was all rain...Rain. In steady pour. Bad enough that if I hadn't had full rain gear with coat and pants I would have been completely soaked in minutes. Miserable weather to walk in but at least views were great so trying to avoid cars giving me extra wash(failing once resulting in entire right side all the way up to hed getting completely soaked by car that passed by) I proceeded toward the temple 24.

Alas the cave Kukai spent 3 years living was off limits due to recent stone falls so that was bummer. I met first time here canadian ladies pair with whom I would be doing leapfrogging all day. I would outpace them, I would go to toilet or take a break and they would catch up and take a lead. Repeat. This continued until I left temple 25 for a konbini stop.

Temple 25 had rather steep and tall stairs to climb to before getting to the main hall. view to the misty sea was quite beautiful.

Rain had briefly stopped here but picked up again so on a konbini took up rain gear(minus trousers) again and headed up toward the 26. I was way too early so took up any excuse for a break. I also stopped at pharmaceusty(sp?) for some cream for dry skin and ended up getting various pain killing stuff, bandaids etc as osettai and met lady who had just been shortly to Finland. We had good time chhatting about Finland there.

But no matter of breaks I arrived rather early to the templ 26. Here I also saw I think first time actual priest doing the pilgrimage. Interesting. Lodging opened after about 30 minutes so had bit chilly waiting but not too bad.

Lodging had one of the most amazing views out of any room I have stayed so far and had nice time just watching it sipping tea before going into bath, talking with other pilgrims there, doing laundry and being in a room for a while and then went to dinner that was more like a feast. I lost count of sashimi slices I ate. 15? Boy I overate but it was so goo-ood! We also had lots of talking and laughing. It's really nice how people here seem to take me into the discussions freely. One of the best parts in this pilgrimage. There's very strong "us" feeling. I get to use my japanese probably more than I have ever used in my life before here. And they don't seem to be holding back much but speak rather naturally. Leads into some trouble with dialects but hey studies!

Tomorrow might be bit tough day if I try to do the temple 27 as well but if I can do that helps day after that. And forecast says rain for full week for now at least some time of day every day...Kochi!

Third summary. Close to the end of Tokushima

Phew. Have had some tough days so haven't had time to write but today have all the time in the world so would be crime not to write!

After last entry I was at the temple 19 after long rainy day after 5 days of walking. So on day 6 I went to the third Bangai temple Jigenji(mercifull eye temple) which was on a mountain and took me on a long detour from the main path. Not many people go to these extra temples because they are so off the main course and this temple exemplifies it!

Luckily I had got permission to leave my belongings to my lodging that was right on the path and was formed school building now turned into some sort of lodging thing by locals. Creative use of school buildings as they become unneccessary due to reducing number of people in the rural Shikoku.

But getting to that lodging alone was some 20km walk of mostly highway. Great views though and lots of locals I passed cheered me on. Thanks! Kind words really help here.

Arriving to Katsuura town I got to see the hina(doll) festival there. Usually it's held on 3th of march but here and on Katsuura of Chiba prefecture it's held longer. Lots of hina dolls. Like unbelieavably many. I shudder to think about price of that collection as even simple dolls are expensive(few hundred euros) and many of those were NOT simple dolls. Must be gifts and other donations through many many years.

I also stopped at konbini for some supplies and was pleasantly surprised when I ran into the motorbike riding women from Hiroshima. She's very interesting fellow I have easy time talking to. Then again I think everybody have easy time talking to. She's just great personality! Feels like aunt whom I can rely on and who always has these great stories to meet. As she's on motorbike obviously her hourly speed is greater but she's visiting EVERY SINGLE spot of interest on the pilgrim map and that means she's zig-zagging here and there. Might take like 3 months for walker to do them all...

Views here were great so my eyes were having feast. Legs less so so when I got to the lodging I gladly left extra weight and headed toward the temple that was some steep climb over some BEAUTIFUL terrain. Really many pilgrims miss out on not coming here. So far it's been these bangai temples that have had best views to see so far.

I got to the temple and...Guess what? It's the biker aunt again! Mutual joy of meeting again. She was surprised I was already here(I think exact words she used "did you fly?"). Well...No but walker path is several km shorter and without backbag pace was good.

Alas main hall was even MORE climbing and that was some STEEP asphalt covered hill path. Took some effort. I did my prayers among half a dozen other pilgrims(group of some kind). I didnt go to famous tunnel here because it's also very narrow at times and the test piece was like half my width so I figured better not risk it.

At the lodging there were 3 other pilgrims including women I would be seeing again.

Day 7 was day I had been nervous about. 25km or so according to map book, no less than 3 mountains(520m, 500m and 200m) to climb. Could be rough day!

Trip to foothills of first mountain temple(20) of the day was backtracing what I had walked yesterday. Climb itself was easier than I thought. At the top it was pretty cold though. I ran here to the women last night and we were both surprised that I had got there first despite her taking car ride to Katsuura. I think she might have used the other climbing path that's longer, her goal for today is closer so she's taking it slowly and climbing up is my speciality.

Going down however is my weak point. I hate going down. Very hard for my knees and ankles. I love climbing mountains but sheesh going down is rough time.

So after arduous climb I walked through small town with literally nothing to see for me. Just people's home. This area is very bad in terms of shops(literally nothing) so food wise make sure you have enough to last you for the day. Best you can have here is vending machines for drinks.

Shortly before climb to next temple(21) I stopped at the vending machine to which also car with old couple and 2 kids, probably grandparents by look of them, stopped. Here one of the most touching events of this pilgrimage happened as the little boy, maybe some 5 or 6 years old, gave me an o-settai! Gift! One candy. Gift itself was no big deal in itself but the thought and emotion of it was much bigger deal. It's hard to really explain how much something as simple as this really meant for me. In terms of material value that's no big deal for me. It didn't also give me anything I really needed. But still the simple gesture gave me extra spring to my steps all day.

I hope all the best for that little boy. Won't be forgetting you in a hurry.

Second mountain was about same as last one in terms of difficulty. Enough to make you feel you have climbed but nothing compared to Shosanji though total climb and descent amount exceeded that day.

I encountered older lady from Hokkaido on the way and we had long fun time talking before the steep climb began and we parted our ways. Fun talk but luckily not the last time we would be talking.

On the top I ran into the female from last night again and she had same idea of taking the scenic route rather than quicker one nor the cable car. Her presence actually came handy when we got into fork where we weren't sure which route to go. Left one to the east was supposed to be great views but she thought it might be dangerous(she thought she had been told so). However she had friend/relative who might go so she called her(I think it's her and not him) and got confirmation it's safe to go so we went there. We parted our ways there on her suggestion that I should better hurry least it gets dark before I cross third mountain.

This route seems to be recently restored pilgrim path and had pretty good views. Also some scarier parts but provided you took your time and used the ropes no REAL reason to worry. Looked worse than it was.

Getting to bottom of the mountain...I started to climb third mountain right away. I swear if there had been 4th mountain to climb it would have been taxi time. My legs were at the limits.

Luckily after short climb(small mountain) I was on the other side so just needed to walk to the station to head back to Tokushima where my lodging was. On route I ran into couple grandma's with whom I first had discussion about how the rice is grown and with another how it's the human to human interaction that is the real treasure of this pilgrimage. It's less about the temples and more about people you meet on the way. Knew this before it began and experience has only sunk it deeper.

Everybody I have met so far. THANK YOU! You have made this as great experience as it has been. I can only hope I have been able to give something back in return.

It was this day I experienced first time in 4 years major case of racism in Japan. One of the lodgings I called flat out refused to take me in because I was foreigner.

This hurt me a bit and made me angry but luckily this has been so far fairly isolated case. There's been couple times lodging owner has been bit worried because I don't have phone number(something I need to work on for next year) but only this one has flat out refused me because I'm not Japanese. And outside lodging at worst people have appeared to be tense when I approach but have relaxed when I speaked Japanese so I figure it's have been less probem that I'm foreigner and more worry about having to deal with english language them being totally incapable or very poor at it. I can understand that and it's never been problem for me. But openly hostile reaction like this was first for me.

Well there's rotten apple everywhere. Can't say there wouldn't be something like this in Finland either.

Day 8th. Waking up early to meet the first train(and really the only train I could use today to be on time...) I headed back to the station I had left last night. Walked to the temple that certainly was one of the more interesting ones so far and had both Honzon and Daishi statue in respective statues clearly visible. I also met here the Biker Aunt again! Always great to meet her especially as I suspected this might be last(unless I go to Hiroshima one day and get tour she promised) as we would be entering part where her bike really shines over feet as transportation method.

She also was helpful giving hints for my ankles that are giving me some grief. In fact I'm going to use one day of my 2 reserve days to slow down my pace here a bit. I need to get them restored again. I can even take more if needed and if need be I take small rest and do this pilgrimage in 3 years if need be. Or 4. I want to finish this but not do anything stupid that causes permanent damage to legs or something.

From temple 22 to temple 23 would be about 20km or so(though think it was actually tad more) that can be summarized as LONELY. At first the women I had met at the lodging after bangai 3 and last night gave short company but again my pace was quicker so I proceeded first. Then it was HOURS walking with maybe one car driving past.

I have never experienced as lonely Japan as this one. At times I felt like I was only person in the world. Emotion shared by the lady in Hokkaido I had met yesterday that I caught up. Before that I had seen 2 grandma's with whom I initiated talk just to have somebody to talk to! And when I met the Hokkaido lady I felt so grateful to have somebody to chat while walking I could have kissed her! Damn it was lonely section.

We parted our ways on Yuki town where she took train toward Hiwasa and I headed on foot. I got here my first taste of sea which was one way I took this somewhat longer route(another reason being more likely seeing vending machines or even konbini and other closeby train stations if ankle issues becomes so severe I need to stop walking).

Enjoying sight I have had only rarely in Japan I walked toward Hiwasa. There was also unexpected bonus of some mountain paths that offered escape from paved road.

I arrived to Hiwasa and headed to the temple that had some serious stairways to climb.

After some serious attempts(lots were booked out) I got lodging at the onsen attached to the temple. And guess what? Lady from Hokkaido was there too! Onsen was also nice though surprisingly small one but still one bath tube fits just fine. Usually in onsens there's been multiple different types of bath but here was just one.

Dinner was also small(very good though) so ordered also ramen to supplement it. Men from saitama that said last year had come this far before quitting from feet issues(condition I could symphatize with) was also there.

I made lodgings for next 2 days. First one took couple attempts before found room and second took some convincing for the owner to let me in. Problem being lack of phone number. She was worried about what if I cancel and never show up. I had to promise that a) I will pay up full even if Icancel up and b) I will call her again on wednesday around noon when I know better when I will be arriving.

It's bit inconvenient but I do understand their side of this as well. This business is pretty hard for them and guests that skip are really big issue for them. That's why I generally don't book many days ahead to ensure I don't run into too many "sorry need to cancel" situations. And I have 100% commitment to fulfil that pay fully even if I cancel. This is not just me but also for sake of other pilgrims. If I cause trouble for the lodgings here it could result into this lodging closing up to foreign pilgrims as well. Or generally to pilgrims without phone number.

Many free sleeping places etc have already in past years closed down because there's been pilgrims who don't appreciate the effort needed to run those and have misbehaved. I have sworn that whatever I do here I try to make sure I don't leave negative impression of pilgrims here. I own that much for the kindness of locals here who are setting up rest places, toilets, path markers etc on voluntary basis.

People of Shikoku. From the bottom of my heart BIG THANK YOU!

Day 9. Due to ankle issues I decided to cut down todays path a bit and abandoned the longer scenic route. Scenery sounded beautifull but like 5km extra lengh plus  4 climbs and decents didn't feel like what my ankles needed right now.

So I instead took the highway 55. So my day, for tad short of 6 hours it took to reach the lodging for today(20km including short detours to shops, pharmaceust and post office) I walked the highway 55. Really not much to talk about this day! Apart from steady stream of cars and couple pilgrims that overtook me when I was resting(generally on other side of the road) I saw nobody else before I reached Mugi town.

I checked in shortly before 1pm which is very unusually early for pilgrims but ankle issues made me want to go for short day and the ones tad further away I tried first were booked up.

The lodging is next to the beach with BEAUTIFULL view. Building itself doesn't look that great from outside being old but inside it's comfortable rooms if you don't mind japanese style with decent bath(not spectacularly good but not bad either) and has western styled toilet which is always nice. Haven't eaten yet so no idea what meals are but so far no complains.

Oh and the views are great!

Today was first day without temples. Tomorrow is 4th bangai temples and then another templess day. On friday will be doing 2-3 temples depending on lodging bookings.

As I write the pain killing tape thingies seems to be doing work and with long rest ahead and plenty of those tapes hoping shorter days ahead restore spring to my ankles.