12th April.
Morning started as beautifull with nice sunny weather and nice, even if small, breakfest. Was out bit before 7AM saying farewells to one of the couple I had met at 26 and again here who would be returning home today.
My legs had been in some pain during mornign and yesterday pace had been slower than usual so it was some concern.
As
I had crossed the bridge didn't feel using ferry would be efficient as
it takes distance anyway and wasn't sure of ferry times. Could be a long
wait. Also figured to walk all. However here became first issue for
today as it seemed temple was further away than I thought it was. Guess
distance on map was ferry route. Oops. Also got lost which added some
more distance.
I could have gone over this water in a ferry...But that would have required recrossing that scary bridge. No thanks!
Good thing that with boots on legs were
feeling good again so was making quick progress. Arrived to the temple
33 that sat next to a shrine. I also had noticed distinct lack of name
slips...Guess I lost them in last temple. Oops! Bought them and
continued...And found out I was also lacking suttra book. I really lost
stuff at last temple eh? Well that rebought and another go. Phew. This
did not start up well.
Arriving to the temple #33 Sekkeiji(Snowy Cliff temple). As can be seen the temple has stone pillars rather than usual Nio(or san) gates. And not only unusual thing of the temple. Unlike many others this is Zen temple of which there are just this, 11th and 15th. For westerns Zen is the most famous form of Buddhism along with Nichiren in the form of Soka gakkai that's been spreading recently.
Chōsokabe, who burned most of the temples in the pilgrimage, made this temple his ancestral temple and is buried within temple's grounds.
Main hall with Yakushi Nyorai(healing buddha) as Honzon. Temple was built between 782-806(wide margin!) and belonged originally to Shingon sect and was named Kofukuji(Good luck temple). Later head priest of the temple died without successor and temple fell in disuse. Between 1573-1592 another priest took over and converted the temple to the Zen Buddhism. Later in Meiji restoration fell again in disuse and restored in 1884.
I think these are Kappa's in pilgrim form, mythical creatures of Japan's folk lores. Not 100% sure though.
From here it would be tad over 6 kilometers to the next temple the
Tanemaji. It starte on highway but got soon into smaller roads along
rice field which felt appropriate enough with the next temple. Legs were
actually surprisingly good so I was hopeful I could make up good
progress. As today was what I had figured 32km or so so wanted to make
good progress at the start.
This was rather interesting solution for path to a home. Canal went straight at the front so need a bridge. There was also one for car. Never seen house like that.
Reaching the temple 34 in
middle of flat area(much like in finland except surrounding mountains!) I
hit the bell(always favourite part of temple visits) before proceeding
to the rather large main hall.
Entrance to the temple #34 Tanemaji(Sowing seeds temple). Said to have been founded by Kobo Daishi shortly after his return from China. He planted five varieties of seeds resulting in the temple name.
Honzon(Yakushi Nyorai again) however was carved by Korean whom Emperor Bintatsu invited to Japan in 578 to help building another temple around present Osaka. This makes this temple to have one of the oldest roots in the pilgrimage.
Numerous times destroyed by typhoons but always rebuilt. Current buildings were rebuilt after typhoon took them out AGAIN in 1970.
Main hall. This temple seems to be popular for pregnants women to pray for easy childbirth. Those who get their wish customarily donate water dippers with their bottoms taken out by priest, prayed over for 2 days and taken to home by women. Then after safe delivery brought back to temple as thanks.
After temple was done took my first break for today resting a bit.
Following trail would again be major road with first bridge crossing
for the day. Rather long bridge. These are the ones that I really could
do without the "don't hit bridge with staff" tradition as the staff is
great help on walking!
Getting to other side of the
bridge I turned map page and started to make some calculations for
todays plan. And realized I might be in trouble. Quick estimate showed I
might end up somewhere around 37km day with one more temple, at
mountain at that, to go. Definitely beyond my comfort zone!
There went my idea of taking lunch at the restaurant on my left. Too far for detour. I was on serious racing mode!
Asking
for every ounce of strenght from my feet I proceeded toward Haruno town
part of Kochi city. I got bit confused as markers didn't seem to match
with my map though but maybe I just read it incorrectly. Either way I
followed the markers rather than my idea of the map.
Stopping for family mart for quick snack and drink refresh I moved
further toward west coming across japanese who was coming back. Either
reverse walker or already on way to 36 since that involves bit
backtracking. He mentioned of taxi company that holds your luggage for
free while you go to the temple and back. Wonderful! With this new found
strenght rushed forward...And missed place I should have turned right
as I realized I was at highway entrace which is off limits for walker
that was well after the place I had supposed to turn right...
What
to do? Walk bit forward and you come across one henro path that leads
to temple no problem. Or backtrack to get to that taxi company? Longer
route but no backbag...
...I was in hurry. Shorter route it is! Gritted my teeth and walked forward. I can do this!
New
path was very easy to follow so was quickly on foot hills of mountain
that would have about 80 meter climb. Nothing too bad so I was pushing
forward on good pace when I came into returning pilgrim. He said 15
minutes though not sure exactly what point of temples. I figured I do it
in 10 then.
One book descripted as first Nansho(difficult spot) of Kochi prefecture though there's other tall mountains before as well). Last approach is said to seem to go on forever though frankly didn't feel like that to me. Slope is called informally as "flowing sweat hill" :D
Temple fire brigade! Some temples solve fire problem by building temple from brick&mortar, this one by starting up it's own fire brigade it seems...
Nice view.
Near the place to wash your hands is small hall hosting Jizo statue. This is linked to miracles regarding women's diseases so is particularly popular for female visitors. Story goes that one day women that had problems with her womb came here but arriving front of the gate blood started flowing. Painfully reaching temple and doing prayers the womb healed almost instanteniously. Jizo statue was set by her(seems to be fairly recent event by the book so 19th-20th century?)
Well what I did was 5 minutes to the temple gate but of course being a
mountain temple not enough to just walk to the temple gates! There was
still stone stairway to climb. Two. I was pretty exhausted and ankles
were protesting lack of breaks which I took here now.
Feeling
bit better I did my standard routine at the halls(sitting quite
unceremously at the steps of main hall while writing name slips. I was
soooo exhausted). Alas I forgot to go to take a look at the water fall
near main hall. I even heard it and thought to go there but exhaustion
wiped it from my mind as I rested some more before getting my stamp,
getting some drinks and going to a toilet.
Main hall.
Founded by Gyōgi in early 8th century. Original name was Keizan-mitsuin Taku-mokuji. Gyōgi also is said to have carved the now national treasure honzon.
Daishi hall.
3rd son of Emperor Heizei and one of Kōbō Daishi's discliples prince Takaoka came here for more than a year after being expelled from the palace rather than wait for inevitable banishment. Takaoka died in Indochina when he was on his way to India. Legend says his soul still remains in pagoda he built here though protecting the temple.
Takaoka is also credited as one possible originator of Shikoku Pilgrimage(though in reality would be one of many. Unlikely any ONE individual set the tradition up)
Then toward the lodging. Some 11-12 kilometers and it was around
13:30. And legs were tired. This was becoming rather tough day. Started
to wonder if I need to either call in and mention I'm late or even use
taxi if legs can't do it as 37km day was starting to look like quite a
real possibility. I have once done 38km but that was about 12h while
this would be in 10h or so...
Getting down from
mountain I spotted big long snake slithering out of the road. Not sure
was this the poisonous mamushi? Either way wasn't going to get close but
as camera has good zoom allowing me to take photos from safe distance
of several meters took couple while it was posing.
Saw also similarly colored snake slithered away but from that I saw just the tail.
As I learned later this is NOT poisonous snake so wasn't in any danger of poisonous death even if it had attacked me.
I took the route I was supposed to come to temple figuring its closest.
Bit confusing moving in reverse(signs are pointing if you go THERE and
not FROM) but got to that taxi company. Aaah.
Then back to road 56 and
to the family mart where I turned to south. There was another family
mart there from which I bought more drinks to keep me going. I took
another break(legs were in stage of "periodic breaks thank you!" and
noticed there was two ways to the lodging. Both same distance, one takes
mountain for about 200m climb. Other just follows highway and has long
tunnel.
Bummer. I love mountains but if I don't want to arrive later than 5pm
I can't take it. Also I'm not sure I COULD do the climb this time and
even if yes could I go all the way to the lodging from the other side?
And what if I run out of steam on the mountain?
´
With heavy heart skipped the mountain route and took the easy route. Sigh.
Still
there was first rest hut plus toilet about 4-5km away which was first
goal so time to start moving these(very tired and painful) legs. Not
just distance so far but the fact I haven't been able to take rests all
that often.
About half way there was some sort of farming company SOMETHING(too
tired to read name plate fully) with tempting sofa out of building.
Nobody around to ask if it's okay to rest so figuring no harm anyway
just sat in it. I REALLY needed this!
With more energy
to my legs was able to continue for my next sub goal the rest
area(helps to keep me going to divide the distance to sub goals). There
was japanese pilgrim who looked like setting up a camp there(as he was.
Pure camping pilgrim. First for sure that I met this trip). Also german
pilgrim arrived to the camp. We talked for a while before I had to
continue. Had about 75 minutes to cover 5.5km or so. Easy on prime condition, now was feeling quite tired already.
Dived into tunnel, got out of it. Saw biker police talking to some car
driver. Entered the Usa-town fukushima area(no relation to the power
plant). Beautiful port but first order of business was lawson for some
supplies for tomorrow that won't have shops for most of day. Walked
forward and came to family mart where I just had to rest while staring
at the bridge I had to cross.
Bridge was real struggle without using staff(didn't always succeed). By
now legs were feeling like lead. Aaah. Just 1 kilometer or so! Felt like
3 miles.
400 meter before the goal was rest spot where I crashed. Just
400m but with those feet I could not have done it without stopping here.
Arriving pretty much spot on 5pm I checked in and got showed my
room(which took some walking...Ugh). Resting my poor legs I went to the
onsen(yey!) which had probably hottest onsen water I have had so far.
Toes were all tingling.
After that I rested and went for dinner where I met chinese pilgrim with whom I talked for a long time.
Oh and before dinner I called for lodging for tomorrow but it was hopeless battle for a while. I figured that with dozen+ places no problem but 11 booked up later I was in trouble. 12th gave me room(but no meals). Problem is this was so close to current place it would be impossible to walk to the NEXT lodging area it would result to 40km day...That or mere 5km for next day...
So what I'll be doing is walk to the bangai temple tomorrow and either use train to backtrack to lodging or walk depending on feeling. Then on day after tomorrow use train to skip about 15km which makes it to distance I can walk in a day and then walk to temple 37 or it's surrounding depending on where I get lodging.
Won't walk 100% but 15km or so won't kill it and won't sleep outside without a sleeping bag,
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