Well as title already reveals I had to stop the pilgrimage tad sooner than I expected(about week prematuredly). Leg issues which I get back later. Still. After last summary I had arrived to temple 26 after arriving to Cape Muroto.
It was heavily raining as I left the temple early prepared for a very long day under steady rain that occasionally paused for few minutes before coming back heavily. I basically just walked alone through couple small villages. After like 10km or so there was pilgrim trail through mountain. I considered skipping it and using the car route which might be tad longer but probably easier than climbing in rain but...I love mountains so I went up. Meeting one local person on route I eventually got to the other side but boy mountain trail with wet leaves is tricky to descent.
Around 11AM serious rain started making me think boat might soon be needed to go forward! I have never walked in rain like this. And trucks were splashing water on me all the time. Boy was I feeling miserable but at least had good motivator to keep me moving fast so I got to the lodging around 1PM. Leaving luggage as agreed I headed to the temple 27 that was on top of 410m or so climb with some stone stairs at the end! I was soo exhausted there. Getting to the lodging I was dead tired. Well 34km, that mountain plus rain so no surprises...
Next day. Started bit misty but much to my surprise it was mostly sunshine today. First in Kochi! I entered Aki town and zagging along their small streets full of old stores I got into walker/biker specific road. Which seemed to last forever. Well more like 5km when I had ran out of drinks and had to exit back to highway to get something to drink. At Akano rest station I ran into couple Australian tourists who were curious about this pilgrimage.
Eventually got into lodging where I first met this middle aged female pilgrim I would meet later again. I had amazing view to look at during meal which made the place well worth it.
Monday. Today was supposed to be short day with just 28km. At the start it didn't rain which was nice but eventually it started to rain. It was about 10km walk to the Dainichiji temple that I had some trouble locating. Trees in the temple compound were particulary nice.
But getting here I started to think my plan for today might be tad...Bad. I would get very short day but tomorrow would be very long one. So I decided to walk to the next temple first before going to lodging. Adds bit more walking overall but cuts down tomorrows job.
Walking through another long road through rice fields that seemed to go forever I eventually came to konbini where I stopped for a break. While eating I looked at the map noticing there was onsen on fairly convenient location. I decided that aftet temple and before going to lodging I would take the onsen! So I walked to the temple(quite nice) and headed to the onsen which felt just great. Only problem was I still had to walk to the lodging in rain! Was tempted to call taxi but resisted.
On route to the lodging I ran into the old lady from yesterday much to mutual joy and surprise. Always nice to meet familiar faces again!
Lodging was standard business hotel so nothing special.
Next day started rainy but eventually cleared up and wouldn't see rain anymore during this walk. It was beautifull day to walk though for some reason my pace was pretty bad. Going to temple 30 I met there the lady again(yey!) before heading toward next temple during which I met older men whom I would walk quite a bit today. We separated for a while during my food break but eventually at the temple 31 we met again.
Before leaving the temple I had spotted mother and her young, like maybe 4 or 5 year old, daughter. I had enjoyed watching the kid enjoy herself so on a whim prepared nameslip paper and gave it to her(much to kids surprisement). Kid seemed to like it though as she excitedly called out for her mother telling her to look what she got. Nice!
Leaving temple I joined up with the men I had met with whom I walked most of the way to the temple 32 before I had to stop in for a break exhausted by the pace. After lunch break at restaurant I got to temple 32 meeting couple americans on route. Another mountain temple with amazing views from the top.
Getting to the lodging took a while as it was some 6km away and included one of the scariest bridges I have had to cross ever. Very narrow walker path and when car came from behind the air jolted me around. And took like 9 minutes just to get to the top...
But the lodging was excelent and ridiculously cheap for the quality. Great view especially in the bath!
Wednesday and beginning of the end! Mistakes in calculation, getting lost and generally lodging locations being less than ideal and after doing temples 33 and 34 in quick order I realized this would be longer than expected with tight schedule. I spent time going to temple 35 like I was racing. Legs weren't enjoying the pace have to say.
Getting to the temple, on top of mountain again, I had some rest there before heading back(possibly seeing the poisonous mamushi. At least it was very long snake so not going to offer being bitten to see if it was poisonous!). I moved fast realizing I WAS going to be tight to get to 5PM which I usually try to arrive as latest(though had I known this was not minshuku but proper onsen/restaurant/lodging I might have felt less need to rush). I skipped mountain climb as I didn't feel I would be able to climb it and get to the lodging and didn't want to risk collapsing on mountain.
Crossing another long bridge I eventually got to the lodging having walked 36.5km. Longest so far. And legs were soooo toasted. Also skin at ankles were broken at places so at night had hard time sleeping if I didn't sleep on my left side protecting right ankle from touching anything.
Next morning felt okay except for the ankle section that didn't like touch of shoes but went to temple 36 and it's oku-no-in(3rd temple hall, often in remote place, where in olden days priests practiced meditation etc). During trip to there I had first hint I was in trouble as climbing mountain road was hard. And then walking toward next town I got into serious trouble as right ankle started to refuse holding up weight.
I was in trouble and after about 8km walking I raised white flag and called taxi. Didn't get reply. This was bad so resorted to hitchiking! After couple attempts got a drive from living angel to the Susaki station.
From there I took the small walk to the bekkaku temple that had been goal and then, since train would have required like 2 hour wait, took about 3km walk to the lodging.
And with this this years pilgrimage is done. Wont try to continue with these feet anymore. Next year with lighter pack and new type of shoes I continue with slower pace.
Next? Plan is quick drop to Kochi castle, then to Tokushima for 2 nights, Okayama, Osaka, maybe Chichibu again and then to Tokyo.
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